Comfortable and Cruising

It’s been a little stressful for our little dinner group lately. Natural disasters, new work, some health niggles and pressures that seem to pop up out of nowhere, and we just have had to put off getting together. The situation has mellowed out for all and we are all comfortable and cruising now. We finally managed to meet up at Brucie and the Bassinet Babe’s for dinner. The Eventress was looking in fine form and The New Man must now be called The Settled Man. (Somehow ‘The Old Man’ doesn’t work!), and with SWMBO and yours truly, we were at it again opening wines and sharing gossip.

An NV Moet & Chandon ‘Brut Imperial’ started the proceedings, still fresh and quite delicate. Looked like a new shipment, as the brand seems to be ticking over quickly now. Another half year in bottle would see it show more depth, but we had no problem finishing what was a good starter.

A great cheeseboard came out and a 2009 von Kesselstatt Piesporter Goldtropfchen Riesling Kabinett slowly built up in richness to go especially well with an ash-rolled chevre served with home-made quince paste. I was surprised by the delicacy of the wine, as it has seemed a little bolder, as this site is prone to be, in the past. Then a blast from the past, a 2002 Stonecroft Hawke’s Bay Gewurztraminer. Fully developed and getting golden, the varietal perfumes and spices had given way to burnished characters and an unctuous palate just starting to show signs of drying and bitterness. Remarkable really, and if it was the ‘Old Vine’ version, it may have surprised us even more.

Blind tasting red wines was the next phase, before the roasted lamb and vegetables. We nailed the 2008 Mt Difficulty ‘Long Gully’ Pinot Noir. Probably my wine of the night. Velvety smooth, with the perfect degree of richness, leaving the wine with a sense of finesse. Beautifully ripened red berry and cherry fruits with freshness and bright acidity. Seamless drinking, with restraint. Our host pulled out the stops with a 1996 Gaja ‘Sito Moresco’ Langhe, a blend of Nebbiolo, Merlot and Cabernet in near equal proportions. Powerfully constructed but flawed by considerable brettanomyces. This could have been a sensation. SWMBO corrected guessed Italian too.

The next was a 2004 Craggy Range ‘Le Sol’ Syrah, served not blind. Beautifully rich and not over-bearing in any way. Clearly varietal and without over-ripeness, this was lively, fresh, vibrant with a hedonistic sweetness and quite delicious. Probably the wine of the night for most of the team. Another blast from the past was presented next, blind again. The 1995 Pegasus Bay ‘Maestro’ Waipara Cabernet/Franc/Merlot. Garnet edged, past mature in colour. And distinctly herbal, stalky and acidic. But the aspirations behind the wine were evident. Fine and significant extraction, and a decent dose of spicy new oak was still a feature. I thought it older.

With the sticky pudding and ice cream came a 2009 Schubert ‘Dulce’ sweet wine, made from Muller-Thurgau from vines outside the cellar door in Martinborough and carrying 6.5% alc. A wow wine with its extreme richness, fresh cutting acidity, amazing spice and honey flavours overlaid with marmalade essence. My second wine of the night! And proof that Muller-Thurgau has its uses...

The effect of wine began taking its toll. We were getting too comfortable and cruisy. Time to head home until the next dinner where the catch up, gossip and wine opening and drinking will no doubt continue.