Moments of Magic from Montana

There was a time in our wine industry that biggest was best. And in the 20-30 years ago period it was Montana Wines that was the giant. It has morphed into Brancott Estates nowadays and its pretty much still the biggest, but it isn’t necessarily seen as the best today if world-class, earth-shaking quality and style are the criteria. While today’s Montana still dominates the overall sales, back in the 1980s it also dominated in terms of innovation. New varieties, new production techniques, and the wines relatively affordable if not downright good value. Brancott does the latter part well still, today. And don’t forget, it was Montana that made a serious go of Marlborough, something that we can be proud of today.

Easy to reach in the drink-up racking was a selection of Montana Rieslings and Cabernet Sauvignons. They needed to be opened, and I wasn’t hopeful of too much magic in the bottles. Most of them I’ve tried before, with disappointing results, but a kinder frame of mind might have been a good approach.

First up, three bottles of 1988 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling. I’ve waded my way through a few bottles of this, wondering why I had so much to start with. It was the year of Cyclone Bola, which might explain a lot? All in the Montana proprietary claret-styled, slim-line bottle with the Montana crest embossed. Corks came out a treat and all in good nick, soaked less than half-way. On the label 12.0% alc., with 12 g/L rs, a TA of 7.5 g/L and pH of 3.4. Not much has changed, the formula still works for them today. Bottle #1 light golden, showing delicate, rich honied notes and a trace of oxidation. Palate similar, with lovely sugar/acid balance and though a thread of oxidation throughout, quite drinkable. Bottle#2 deep golden colour, dense on nose with deep oxidation and madeira like. Honied but blowsy and past it. Bottle#3. Palest yet, fine, tight, crisp and acidic with less fruit. “There are only good bottles” was the saying that came to mind.

Then two older bottles. The 1983 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, a multi-gold winner in its day, a wine that Serena Sutcliffe praised when she judged the Air N.Z, Wine Awards way, way back. An ullaged bottle, with deep golden colour, some oxidation, dried out a tad, but honey and cream notes, with good acid, and a touch of burnished flavours. A core of quality could be detected. Magic! Then a 1981 Montana Marlborough Rhine Riesling, also ullaged, but in fine condition. More lean and thread, tight and delicately toasty. Not as rich or as concentrated as the 1983, but a delight, despite the line of oxidation.

There’s not much Cabernet Sauvignon in Marlborough now, but in the 1980s there was plenty. Montana’s Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon was always knife-edge, but ripeness was not being achieved consistently anywhere else, so the Montana wines were relatively acceptable. The vineyard was the Fairhall site and the wines ranged from 11.5 to 12.0% alc. with about 6.1-6.3 g/L TA, and aged in U.S. and French puncheons. The 1990 was dark mahogany-garnet with a solid, deep nose of blackcurrants, green herbs, minted chocolate, all quite in harmony. But weak on palate, somewhat stalky but smooth. The 1987 was lighter coloured, garnet and brick, lean, slightly grubby and corky. Leaf, acid, mustiness, and thinness pervaded this non-beauty. If it wasn’t corked, it wouldn’t be much better. Then a 1986, a little deeper in colour and with a gutsy, grubby nose of herbs, leaf and toasty oak. Mellowed out on palate, the acidity came through, but this was drinkable just.

Then onto an experimental 1982 Montana Wairau Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 11.5% alc. and aged 10 months in U.S. oak puncheons. It was an allocated wine at the time. Deep mahogany and garnet hued, this had an air of complexity and interest. Earthy-dirty, but currant, leafy, herb and stalk, all intermixed with oak toast. Same interest on palate, the acidity elevated, and savoury green. A little ugly in some respects, but this is Kiwi Cabernet, from Marlborough, 29 years old. Some forgiveness is required.

I found some good moments with these Montana wines in the final analysis. Not quite magical, but plenty to interest me and nostalgic as well…