Graced with the presence of the Little Aussie Battler, it
was appropriate we opened a could of wines which show that pursuing long term
goal results in rewards. The 2000 Te
Mata ‘Coleraine’ was the perfect example.
Many have suggested that the Te Mata team push for more ripeness, but
they reckon the elegant claret model is what they do best, and it’s a classic
across the world and has been for ever and a day. Personally, I’ve been a fan for the riper,
bigger 1998 Coleraine, and it is a magnificent wine. But the 2000, initially on the tighter and leaner
side in comparison with the 1998, has shown its true class. Great finesse and concentrated richness, with
everything in perfect proportion. Lovely
depth and fine-grained textures, unfolding layer upon layer of secondary
complexities to guild the fruit. The
bottle didn’t last long…
Following was the 2006 Craggy Range ‘Le Sol’ Syrah. Steve Smith and his team knew that Syrah was
going to be special from the start. The
first few vintages were statement wines, but the search for finesse led to a
toning down of ripeness, extract and oak.
A cooler vintage such as 2006 is a good thing for the style. Initially closed and a bit savoury, without
the fruitiness seen in new wines. But developing
that real savoury, gamy meaty and spicy lifted floral and pepper tinged Syrah
fruit so reminiscent of top northern Rhone.
But cleaner, more modern. New
Worldy, but more than a nod to the Old World.
This won’t last as long as the Coleraine, but it’ll do very well.
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