Two Pinot Noirs from Martinborough stood out. The 2009 Escarpment Pinot Noir seemed
surprisingly light at first. But in the
glass, it grew to become fully-fledged.
Lovely red fruits, and a little whole bunch savoury-herby perfume quite
noticeable. Lovely and sweet in fruit,
with very fine and supple tannins. The
structure certainly there, but all very harmonious. On first sip, I thought I was going to be
disappointed, but this just get better and better. It was hard not to finish the bottle quickly! This was an excellent year for the
Martinborough region, maybe the wines a tad lighter and full of potential than
2006 or 2008 which are seen as among the top vintages, but it’s not far behind,
and it shows. I think the ‘Kupe’
structured style might have been a little moderated by the year.
Matching it was a 2007 Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir. This was a frost-affected crop and as a
result a tiny, tiny vintage. However,
the intensity and the quality quite startling.
I think the 2007s have matured more gracefully than the 2005s, which are
another low yield year. The 2007s have
retained riper flavours and freshness of fruit, whereas the 2005s seem to show
their greener personality now as the develop their secondary flavours. So the case with the Martinborough
Vineyard. Lovely sweet and vibrant fruit
full of vitality, the tannins and acids in balance. But as the wine saw air, distinctive toasty
oak appeared. A little too much in the
end. But it too was just delicious.
The plan about planning is a good one.
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