There’s two sides to every story they say, and my lazy impression is that Italian whites are a bit bland and flavourless. Well, in comparison to the flavour-packed whites we see in the New World. It’s easy to be biased in favour of flavour, but there’s a lot more to wine, and cleanliness, precision, cut and quenchability have a large say in seeing how a wine can work in with food and life. A pair of Tuscan whites made the point pretty clear. And they show how the Italian’s can foot it with the New World.
Firstly the traditional.
A 2012 Castello Banfi ‘San Angelo’ Toscana Pinot Grigio, pristine and
pure, pretty much bone dry, with subtle stonefruits, nuts and herbs. Refreshing and mouthwatering. You might as “where’s the flavour” if you
were on a diet of Kiwi Sauvignon Blanc, but it is there and is judged perfectly
if you are sipping away, quietly.
Finesse with cut.
Then the innovative.
The New World is discovering Vermentino, but the Italians have had it as
a staple. It suits the modern world,
because it can be so up-front and fruity.
And it was with a 2012 Banfi ‘La Pettegola’ Toscana Vermentino. Exotic florals mixed with herbs. In your face in aroma and flavour, but
balanced by freshness, raciness and a clean, crisp finish. It offers the taste for flavour seekers, but
the palate for those who need the food-friendly cut and dryness.
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