Bordeaux Balance and Perspective

I must admit all around me it’s Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir, Pinot Noir, and maybe a little Syrah.  It’s the country we live in, and Pinot Noir is the most widely planted red.  And of course Syrah is tipped to be the next best thing.  It wasn’t always like that, and in the bad old good days of yesteryear, the king of the reds was Cabernet Sauvignon, because it was the majestic basis for the world’s best wines, the great first growths of the Bordeaux.  Merlot was second rate then.  But things changed, and Merlot got promoted, primarily because of Petrus, the Moueix family and Pomerol.  Then we realised that here, in our maritime climate, the Bordeaux varieties just don’t ripen as consistently as Pinot Noir, thus Cabernet and Merlot began to lose favour – quickly

There’s only a little buzz about Cabernet and Merlot at present, but that’s going to change with the 2013 Hawke’s Bay wines coming on stream.  We may see a revival, and a return to an appreciation of these varieties from a global perspective and balance.  These are the varieties and wines which still dominate the fine wine scene for the world.  And in New Zealand, Te Mata have kept the message going.

The 2005 Te Mata ‘Coleraine’ is a wonderful ambassador for Cabernet and Merlot, with 45% of the former and 37% of the latter.  There’s also 18% Franc.  It restores one’s faith in the Bordeaux style of wines in a Burgundy-obsessed situation.  Still dark as, and young, then a stupendously beautiful array of black fruit aromas, just beginning to go beyond blackcurrants and cassis, to include rich plums, earth , cedar, redcurrants, and herbs.  Gorgeously sweet and decadent, contained and bolstered by magnificent structure and extraction.  But everything in balance, and with a richness that lends opulence with supple accessibility.  Cor, I could drink this all night.  We all did and enjoyed it to a man (and woman).  There’s another decade left in this wine, and SWMBO and I are pleased we have some more…