Just Playing

It’s easy to think that Germany is all about Riesling.  But the new wave folk are doing new things and seeking all manner of wider expressions.  Drier styles and other varieties, often from Burgundy are seen as ideal to try out.  The F-Man is a fan of these, and he’s always trying these out on us whenever we get together.  A delicious meal at the favourite eatery was accompanied by two interesting wines he brought along.  I’m sure the F-Man is playing with us, showing something unusual.  But also the wine producers here are playing too, to please themselves and their friends.

The first was the 2013 Ansgar Clusserath ‘Steinreich’Riesling Trocken.  This is an up-and-coming producer with good holdings in Trittenheim, making over the years a smart portfolio of classical Rieslings up and down the pradikat system.  They’ve made inroads into the drier style, made with a bit of input from wild yeast, lees and texture, but they remarkable retain a sense of both the old with the new.  This has a lively vibrancy and freshness with richness.  Delicious stuff.

Next was the 2013 Wittmann Rheinhessen Chardonnay Trocken ‘S’, grown on limestone-influenced soils.  This is one of Germany’s big name contemporary producers with Riesling, but as is always the case, everything they do is interesting and good.  This is no exception with a ripe and savoury citrus fruit character.  Nothing like white burgundy in reality, but it is different to any Riesling you’ll come across.  Good acid and an intrigue that keeps you coming back for more.