Racing Through a Range of Whites

It was a bit like speed dating.  Here we were with the Shady Dog folk and they had so much wine to open and try.  If you stepped back, you may have missed a treasure.  Only if you are there will you have the chance of meeting the one that is special!  A progression of white wines, mainly racy and Chardonnayish came up in turn.  I’ve listed them in an order as they didn’t necessarily appear, just so I could organise it all in my mind.

 

First was the 2009 Huet Vouvray ‘Le Haut-Lieu’ Demi-Sec.  Usually one of my favourites from this venerable producer.  I love the crystal clear white florals and the touch of honeysuckle.  Searing acidity has never been a problem, as balance has been the feature.  This bottle a little sacky and showing some sulphides.  Others saw it as complexity!  Then onto a 2009 Ch. Monbousquet Bordeaux Blanc, serious Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris blend, barrel-fermented, lees work etc.  Very tight initially, but finally releasing it’s fine line of green stonefruits and herbs, with fine and refined oaking.  Some firmness of texture at the core, and great linearity, but just a bit too tight to really enjoy. 

Then onto the Chablis bracket.  For starters, the 2005 Pinson Chablis Grand Cru ‘Le Clos’.  First impressions were that it was too old, with secondary savoury nutty/flinty/mineral/earth amalgam.  Not pretty and getting a bit stinky and decrepit.  But underneath it all, it had classical Chablis acid structure and drive.  Easy to move on, but for those who looked at it again, later, it cleared and cleaned up, the aromas becoming a little more defined, and a degree of freshness reappearing.  It welcome pleasure was the 2010 Dauvissat Chablis Grand Cru ‘Les Preuses’.  More what you’d expect, with everything in place.  Lovely white stonefruits, subtle flint and minerally acidity.  A little soft even, all nicely tucked in.  Everything perfect, and if you were critical, maybe a tad unexciting.  The idealist would say it was just right.  I vacillated between the two. 

Finishing with the bigger Chardonnays.  The 2011 Benjamin Leroux Meursault 1er ‘Le Porusot’ from one of Burgundy’s young stars.  Contemporary stuff with gunflint galore.  Or is this minerality as some would purport?  I say it’s input.  This is tight and firm and full of promise, but doesn’t speak fullness, roundness and creaminess that Meursault has to me over my time of learning.  The Leroux signature is strong here.  But I liked it.  Finally a wine from an old friend, a 2009 Millton ‘Clos de Ste Anne’ ‘Naboth’s Vineyard’ Gisborne Chardonnay.  Fully developed and layers of complex stonefruits, nuts and oak with earth and minerals.  Not knowing what the ‘Naboth’ terroir was, I’d have an idea after this.  In vinous terms, at full maturity, with layers of savoury and secondary flavours, just starting to dry a little.  But a structured mouthful that deserves contemplation and food.