Different Vinous Beasts

In little New Zealand, we see very few wines from North America.  Yet there is a strong tie between this country and the state of Oregon in the north-west, particularly when it comes to Pinot Noir.  Many critics would say outside Burgundy, New Zealand and Oregon make the best Pinot Noirs.  And there is considerable cross-pollination of ideas and approaches, with winemaker exchanges and the never-ending Pinot Noir conferences and celebrations.  One conclusion in comparing the wines is that the Oregonian wines are ripe and more structured, whereas the Kiwi wines are fruitier and more aromatic.  Essentially different vinous beasts, though related.

A chance to look at the other animals came in the form of the 2014 Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Gris and 2012 Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Noir.  These two varieties are the most important in the region.  The Pinot Gris very light in colour and fruit expression, and more stonefruity with a suggestion of nuts and minerals, rather than floral, honied and unctuous.  So we’d see it as a Pinot Grigio style, but with more richness.  Onto the Pinot Noir, and certainly noy as varietally clean and pure, but with a savoury herbal nose and flavour.  More importantly was the structure, with grainier if not a suggestion of more blocky tannins.  But the balance works, with grip and fruit depth in good measure.