Good Shape

We tend to think that our New Zealand wines don’t age particularly well, especially in comparison with the classics from the Old World.  Even the more modest wines from the Old World can seem to hang in there and keep for a long time.  As a consequence we err on the side of caution and drink them relatively early.  Of course, we are often very surprised how well a wine has lasted when we do broach an older wine, but we usually temper our enthusiasm with the comment that we’ve moved on in viticulture and winemaking since then.  There are proponents of keeping New Zealand wines for lengthy times, and the wines from these people’s cellars are stunning, if these people know what they are on about.

Steve Smith MW proposed that his 2008 Craggy Range ‘Beaux Cailloux’ Gimblett Gravels Hawke’s Bay Chardonnay would be a keeper, very much as a number of white burgundies we were concurrently tasting would do so.  There was a nagging doubt in my mind, but took him at his word, as he’s a rather smart man who I respect immensely.  Well, it has been in the cellar all that time since, and the occasion called for something interesting.  Jol-Vino and the I-Spy Man were having dinner with us, so this was it!

The wine was described as being in ‘good shape’ by Jol-Vino.  She was understating the fact that it was in great shape.  SWMBO and I joined the I-Spy Man as pronouncing it sensational.  Still pale in colour, it had the most elegant, but rich layers of sweetly ripe stonefruits and tropical fruits melded with nutty and toasty oak, and the perfect amount of flinty complexities.  A wine of great depth, richness and freshness, just capturing our continued interest.  At 8 years old, it would have been deemed near the end of its useful life if judging by the label only.  In reality, it could easily last another 8 years.  Sensationally ‘good shape’ indeed.