Aspiring

The New Year is a time for resolutions and aspirations. What a busy day it has been with lots of talking, laughing, eating, drinking and of course some exercise to work it all off. The wines tasted today were wines of aspiration too. Winemakers wanting to move forward and better themselves as well as offering better for the wine drinker. It was appropriate to drink such wines...

A 2008 Yalumba 'Virgiliuis' Viognier is the best expression of the variety for the people who have worked with it the longest in Australia. More aromatic and refined than ever, and also more elegant too. For those in the know, the wine is more complex in nuances than ever. This bottle a touch reduced on nose, but rich and oily textured with excitingly pure, but exotic fruit. Only 13.5% alc. Also in the same league or even higher in aspiration was a 2005 Heymann-Lowenstein Winningen Uhlen 'R' 'Roth Lay'. One of the great dry Mosel Riesling producers. 12.5% alc., with an intriguing depth, line and power. The acidity needing a richer note that maybe I'd see sweetness contributing something. Is dry Mosel Riesling an impossible ask? Gordy would like to think not. Seemingly premature on first taste, this came into itself with air time. So maybe the intention of style is worthwhile?

Then the 'burgundy' pairing. I previously liked the 2008 Fevre Chablis 1er Cru 'Vaulorent in a previous tasting. It had the pizzaz and acidity of 2008 and 1er Cru. But italso had the depth of fruit and oaking of a Grand Cru. It delivered everything on this opening too. Gordy and Perfect P, as well as SWMBO concurred. What a good thing to push the limits of 1er Cru in Chablis! Then onto a 2002 Dry River Pinot Noir. Obviously Pinot Noir with rich red fruits. Full on palate, with tannin structure underneath. On breathing, a little more of the cooler 2002 vintage came through. Gordy not too impressed with the way it went, but I was happier about it. The Dry River people seem to get a lot of flak for what they do. 'Tall Poppy Syndrome' for sure, but for me, they are admirable for going harder, further and hopefully better.