Thursday, January 20, 2011

High Drama

Our night with the Drama Queen, the Little Aussie Battler and the Drama Queen Mum was an excellent one. The LAB had been to deepest Europe and brought back some wines to share over a dinner she wanted to cook.
First was a 2007 Hirsch Riesling 'Gaisberg' from Zobling, Kamptal. An interestingly different wine from most of the Austrian Rieslings we've seen, in that it was softly sweet, honied and almost unctuous, rather than intensely dry, steely and lime-minerally and searing. The subtle influence of botrytis may have added to its enjoyment. Then a 2009 Hirsch Gruner Veltliner 'Heiligenstein' from Kammern, classically dry, subtle herby, with peppery overtones. This is what I see as typical. The Battler reckons GVs can last well, and she saw this as capable of doing just that.
With our lamb shanks and mash (yummmmy!), was a 2002 Quartz Reef Pinot Noir. These 2002 Central Otago Pinots have polarised people. Some love the big ripeness and structure. Others say they are not varietal and lack florals, thinking they will disintegrate. We were in the former camp. Savoury and secondary flavour, along with cooked strawberry and red berry flavours. Big in mouthfeel, but tannins resolving. A really good food wine too. It'll keep well for a few more years yet...
Then with the dessert, two sweeties. First a 2004 Ch. Coutet Barsac. More golden than other 2004s we've seen. Wonderfully soft and subtle, with layers and waves of aroma and flavour developing. Lanolin, barley sugar, caramel and hokey-pokey, all on a full, but gentle palate. Just lacking the Coutet 'cut' that marks this wine. Drink it now! Then a 2003 Neustifter Niederosterreich Welschriesling Eiswein from NE Austria. Golden, with a dramatic, high VA level nose. But on palate big and sweet in the liqueur style. Essence of apricots, marmalade and honey. Again, not the hard acid hit expected as in many German and Canadian examples. A touch of the savoury yellow fruits showed its developing complexity. A dramatic high note to finish a great evening on!

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