Tuesday, January 4, 2011

Yin and Yang

All in the world seems to fit into place sometimes. There we were at dinner with the Orange Couple, and it all seemed complementary and complete. We had a dazzling array of food morsels, all good and very varied, spanning all types of cuisines. The wines too were different, but similar too, and they all had their position into the scheme of things.
Firstly a 2004 Dry River Martinborough Pinot Noir, showing typical dried herb character of the cool vintage. Nevertheless, it was sweet and succulent with a depth behind it. The darker flavours indicated a ripeness and push that other people didn't achieve in that year. It harked back to the 2002 Dry River shared with Gordy and Perfect P a few days ago, and made a positive impression as well. This was followed by the Merlot predominant 2000 Te Awa 'Boundary' Red from Hawke's Bay. Troubled by brettanomyces, but still dark and vibrant with quality fruit that was there, just struggling to show. A little hard, dry and four-square. Drinkable and drink now, if you don't mind the animal notes, or quite good, if you see gamey elements as positive.
The oldies were an interesting pair. They followed on from the Te Awa theme, both being Merlot dominant too. Right bank, one each from the two major appellations. The 1982 Clos des Jacobins St Emilion, owned by Cordier at the time. Lightish and coolish with green tobacco flavours, noticeable acidity, hints of savoury animals, still with tannin bite. A little unclean really, and passable, though not really enjoyable. Then the treat of the day, a 1978 Clos Rene Pomerol. Label-less after the ravages of damp storage, but vintage confirmed by the cork on extraction. Still dark red, Ripe plump, black fruits with classical tertiary overtones. The sweetness of fruit still there, excellent freshness and acidity, and fine, mellow tannins. The bottle did not last long. A minor wine in the hierarchy, but here, with 30+ years, it stood up well. All wines have their time of day.

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