Bright and Lively

That was what it was all about. The meeting of like minds to assess some wines where purity, finesse, clarity and liveliness is all. And we had the AC Electric Man and the Aromatic Ace on board, as they are among the brightest if not liveliest people around. The main feature was done with seriousness and properly, and doesn’t need reporting here. But some bright and lively wines (and some not) are worthy of a note.

The ‘befores’ were consumed at our favourite Asian eating house, where such wines seem to be well suited to the food. First up was an Italian co-operative wine, a 2010 Eisacktaler Kellerie Sudtirol Eisacktaler Kerner. At 13.5% it is no weak or watery wine. With Riesling-like overtones on the nose, showing limes and flowers, it was more like a Viognier on palate, with its weight and heat. But this had plenty of zingy acidity too. This worked well, and was a pleasure to drink.. However the nest wine was a 2008 Muller-Catoir Haardter Mandelring Scheurebe Spatlese from the Pfalz. Only 10%, and great for it, the gentle honey, notes of spice and soft florals increased in richness, hinting at the presence of botrytis. The precision and finesse of texture was a joy to behold. No wonder this German label is an icon.

There had to be some more OTT styles to counter the fresh styles. And the 2007 Ivicevich Waimauku Chardonnay was certainly it. Intense, powerful nutty and mealy-rich, a touch of oxidation was detected, but we were not fazed by it in any way. Complexity knows no bounds? Yet there was excellent acidity to keep it all alive. The mandatory red was a rare 2009 Penfolds ‘Bin 150’ Marananga Shiraz. I love this wine. It’s all shiny and bright with lush new American oak, ultra-smooth, and super ripe without being over-done. Classic Penfolds as it should always be, without being too robust. I see it as a ‘junior’ RWT, but better than be a junior.

The ‘afters’ followed a more usual approach with some of the old ‘treasures’ from the long lost cellar. To prime ourselves up, a pair of Chardonnays. The first, the 2010 Villa Maria ‘Keltern’ Chardonnay, has been one of the most successful wines on the New Zealand show judging circuit. I’ve been intrigued by its complex lees and sulphide working, and the cream-corn character was pretty clear this showing. Sometimes it can be overbearing and swmnp the fruit, but here in balance, but obviously still tight and young. The previous bottle of 2007 HdV de la Guerra Los Carneros Chardonnay also walked the same complex reductive sulphides tightrope. Unfortunately this bottle distinctly oxidised. Nevertheless, great power and structure with body, alcohol and acidity with grunty grip.

Red time was based on a trio of trouble, three 1986 Hawke’s Bay Cabernet/Merlot blends. The 1986 St George Cabernet/Merlot, aged in American oak, pungently green and stemmy and marked by high acidity, quite harsh to drink. No trace of the U.S. wood. Time has done it no favours. But surprisingly integrated, balanced, harmonious and totally harmless was the 1986 Esk Valley ‘Private Bin’ Cabernet/Merlot 1986. Smooth, mellow, soft, and not really herbal in any way. Good premium wine a quarter of a century ago, but without great aspirations. The word must come out – attractive. Then we expected the most from the 1986 Brookfields Cabernet/Merlot, sporting a flash gold label, and aged in oak with a significant portion new. This had the most weight, sweetness of fruit and detectable oak shine, but spoilt by a grubby streak. In its youth, this was full of bright interest. But other things have got in the way.

To see off the reds, a 1989 Wynns Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon. Easy to see the Cabernet Sauvignon, with blackcurrant flavours, and reasonably easy to see the Australian, with a mild underlay of eucalypt. Or is that Coonawarra mint? Ultra soft, ultra rounded and very smooth. The tannins have been resolved completely, so the backbone has faded. But still sweet, soft and mildly delicious, and surprisingly alive. The final blast was a 1997 Rolly Gassmann Alsace Riesling ‘Pflaenzerreben de Rorschwihr’ Vendages Tardive. Golden, honey and earth, sweetish in more the spatlese-equivalent class rather than more, where it should have been? Lovely weight and identity, but a bit of a misnomer calling it a VT. Or had it dried out and thus losing its sweetness and richness? Still, this is a lovely drink.

As we tasted much and did not drink a lot, we retired bright and fresh so we could wake up bright and lively. I’m glad to report we all did. Except the AC Electric Man.