Tears of Remembrance

Yet again we headed over the hill to accept the hospitality of the A-Prentices. They are always so accommodating and the latitude they give us in opening strange and odd bottles with the specialist commentary, is really quite remarkable. We also had the presence of The P-Prince, and this seemingly added some gravitas to the occasion, but the truth is, we’re all human, and egalitarian principles apply.

The night gave us the opportunity to open more 1986 Cabernet and Merlot blends from New Zealand. A quarter of a century on, and most of us would not hold out too much hope. But our experience of wines from this era, in this country, has surprised us. We live in hope! But in reality, viticulture was not what it is today, and green was the rule then. Anything that rose above unripeness is a wine of merit.

The 1986 Nob Hill Waiheke Island Cabernet/Merlot was lively, vibrant and sappy, and a little grubby. If you got past that, it was still a fresh drink. But it was difficult to get past the corruption. I suppose that’s why Goldwater Estate had it as a second label. The fruit didn’t measure up. I was more happy with the 1986 Kumeu River Merlot/Cabernet. Riper for sure, because nothing really stalky or stemmy showed. It had a togetherness which made it quite palatable. But in the final analysis a light weight with modest interest. Still it was my favourite. Then the most strikingly green wine in the group, a 1986 Collards Cabernet/Merlot. Sporting a ‘Flash Gordon’ label, this was jagged with its unripe flavours and acidity. The tannin harshness was exacerbated, and acid ruled. Odd, because Collards was a ‘hot’ label at the time, but to be honest, their reds didn’t match the whites. Contract fruit without viticultural care? The most distinctive wine was the 1986 St Nesbit. A Cabernet/Merlot blend aged in 100% new French oak. Expensive and extravagant stuff in those days. Tony Molloy QC was the proprietor, and his aspirations were extremely high. Unfortunately virussed vines put paid to the project. I understand he has vines today, and wine is coming. But this 1986 stood out for its shiny, spicy oak, still burning bright. But no fruit underneath now…

1986 was a big year for P-Prince. He was in the Auckland region then, and visited and was familiar with all the wines and people involved. He changed direction in making a move down south to start a new life. The wines from that vintage nearly brought tears of remembrance. The question we asked was “What were you doing in 1986?” Some of us drinking these wines had not been born!

To show how quickly things change, in a short time, the A-Prentices brought out a 1991 Corbans ‘Private Bin’ Merlot. Slightly green. But much more fruit weight and richness. Green turning to green tobacco which is much more acceptable. 5 years down the track from the 1986 wines, and a world of difference. SWMBO and P-Prince backed this wine as the best of the bunch.