The Italian Job

It would have been over four years since we had a meal with Mar and Treasure, and to celebrate SWMBO chose fine Italian fare. Our host Just a Sippy is one of the most convivial in town, and his establishment was truly humming like a bird. We’ve eaten there many times, and we have always been very pleased with the food. While we decided what to choose, a glass of refreshing unidentified Prosecco hit the spot. A hint of sweetness, and a touch of body, something to bring a smile on, and perfect with warmed oysters on a bed of slightly spiced angel’s hair pasta. With veal, lamb, risotto and pappardelle ordered, it was time to the big Italian vino to do the job.

Just two wines, a bianco and a rosso were sufficient. Both from 2008, and both at opposite ends of the maturity spectrum. The 2008 Antinori Cevaro della Sala is fully-worked Chardonnay with 15% Grechetto. Deep golden, it warned of its age. Restrained nutty notes wafted and built, without giving too much away, but on palate a minor explosion of richness, warmth and flavours. Totally interwoven and harmonious, and indistinguishable from a good premier cru Meursault. Strangely the oysters stood up to this, their piercing piquancy showing their independence and non-Italian nature.

The 2008 Allegrini ‘La Grola’ Valpolicella is about as serious as Corvina can be before it heads into ripasso or amarone country. Dark ruby and youthful, this was brimming with primary, juicy dark fruits and sweetness, along with a pepper-spice edge. No doubt the 20% Syrah playing its part. Tannins grew and picked up from the initial fruitiness, and the seriousness of this wine became apparent, but it never lost its succulence. Both these wines did their jobs wonderfully, though neither a perfecto match, maybe the veal with the white best.

As we settled up with Just a Sippy, out came the compulsory limoncello, perfect to simultaneously clear and sate the palate after the gelato. Our host certainly knows his job.