Firm and Fine from 2009

We had Easy-Going Erin as our guest and she was indeed the perfect person to host.  Not only is she elegant and a wonderful conversationalist, but she has impeccable taste in wine, sharing our love of Rieslings from Germany and red burgundies.  Though thoroughly sated from an evening of many wondrous older vintaged wines and delicious food, we still managed to entertain the idea of eating yum cha at our local Asian eatery.  We were delighted to have some younger wines from our favourite styles.  2009 has delivered some very user-friendly wines, but we found from this session they can still be firm with plenty of time to evolve. 

A 2009 Von Kesselstatt Graacher Josephshofer Riesling Kabinett has a distinctive ‘flagship’ label, the estate’s monopole holding of this vineyard considered rather special.  A little touched by sulphur, this had a intriguing combination of delicacy with weighty concentration, ethereal flavour and soft textures.  Ripe citrus and floral fruit notes, on the dry side, and promising much.  Even with time in the glass, one could see the sulphur dissipate and the wine become richer.  A wine for a decade for sure.  11.0.% alc.

A wonderful comparison was the 2009 S.A. Pum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett.  Much sweeter and with a correspondingly lower 7.5% alc.  Somewhat clouded by sulphur too, this blew off quickly to reveal the slate and sleekness of the site, with floral, citrus lime and honey intermixed with the sugar.  A more up-front wine without the weight and depth of the Von Kesselstatt, this is still an appealing Riesling that delivers satisfaction.  It too will evolve to show toast and cream, maybe in the medium term, as there’s plenty of substance.

The 2009 Drouhin Beaune 1er Greves was looking even than last tasted six months ago.  The fruit lift and vibrancy has grown, but also its extraction and richness as well.  While very drinkable, the primacy of the fruit, the altogether componentry and the firmness of the fine tannins meant there’s plenty to unfold and plenty in reserve.  Not quite ‘New World’ in fruitiness, but certainly ripe and sweet.  Drouhin wines always retain a sense of class and style, very much like the family members.  This will be delicious even in 10 years time for sure.