Thursday, April 26, 2012

You Little Sweeties

After a delightful meal out near the film HQ, we had the AC Electric Man and Mr Spiffen at home to enjoy a few more wine tastes.  As the evening was coming to an end, what better than a couple of little sweet wines.  One we expected great things from, the other, the older, we didn’t expect too much, but both were superb.  In our minds, we punched the sky, shouting “you little sweeties!”

We’d acquired a little stock of the 2008 Craggy Range ‘Rapaura Road Vineyard’ Noble Riesling on release.  It came out the same time as the ‘Fletcher Vineyard’ version, and the two seemed very similar, but AB the winemaker knew which was the standout and he bet his boss a Ch. d’Yquem which was the better.  AB won the bet.  It’s been irresistible, and this last bottle of ours was still young.  White florals and tight honied limes with concentrated botrytis, this oozed weight and unctuous textures.  Brilliant richness and quite complete, the 10.0% alc. perfect and beautifully cutting lacy acidity keeping it all in balance.  Fabulous decadence for a wine still with another decade plus to go.

We followed it with a sweet wine over a quarter of a century old, and regarded similarly at the time.  The 1986 Te Wahare Ra ‘Botrytis Berry Selection’ Muller-Thurgau.  9.8% alc., so similar in that way to the Craggy Range.  Allen Hogan knew how to make these little beauties, and consistently too.  The dark green glass of the bottle made the colour unappetising, and on pouring it was mahogany, but clear, not brown.  Flytox degrading to lozenges and caramel with barley sugar.  A hint of decrepit corruption hinted on nose.  Ultra sticky in the mouth, and very broad.  But still in remarkable condition, offering waves of hedonistic flavours.

I’m not pleased with how most N.Z. botrytised wines age, but this was a lesson in how they can go the distance.  Never give up!

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