However the wines selected to go with the butterfish were
two sexy Chardonnays from 2006. That’s a
few years down the track for many of this variety, but for wines with any
degree of aspiration, they’re just coming into their own. The 2006 Kumeu River ‘Mates Vineyard’
Chardonnay with some golden hues, and that distinctive struck-match, flinty
complexity and great weight and depth of stonefruits and nuts, but all with
style and class. More a dry, minerally
mouthfeel, and it worked well with the sea flavours of the oysters, more so
than with the fish, but no issues there either.
The great pairing was the 2006 Sacred Hill ‘Riflemans’ Chardonnay. Pale yellow, with ripe citrus fruits
dominating, backed by oak nuttiness, and just the perfect degree of complexing
flintiness. More to this wine in volume and presence. This has a lusciousness and
sweetness to the fruit and this element met the sweetness of the fish. They say the sum is greater than the
parts. True here.
Two really sexy O-Six Chardonnays, both with plenty of life
and future ahead.
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