A 2008 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett turned out to seem sweeter than the last time I tried it. No matter, a wonderfully concentrated affair with great fruit extract to match the richness. And also, now developing a hint of the subtle toasty complexities that lift the wine out of the ordinary. Perfect acidity, and clearly more weight, and definitely not that Mosel clarity, and more tension than a Rheingau. That’s what make the Nahe wines sit right in the middle.
The next was a 2006 Weinbach ‘Cuvee Theo’ Alsace Gewurztraminer. I tried it a number of years ago, and while thoroughly competent and ticking all the boxes then, it was definitely a little ungainly and showing some phenolic texture. But doesn’t Gewurztraminer do that anyway? Drinking it now, it is still a robust one, but now with earthy secondary interest intermingling with honey and hair-oil. I think I liked it. Maybe this could have done with a little more floral lift?
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