In no particular order, the wines come out. The first was a 2005 Pierre Gimonnet ‘Fleuron’
1er Cru Champagne, impressively upfront and bold with plenty of fruit and fizz
as well as the required bready autolysis.
Though not possessing all the layers and nuances, this was indeed a
satisfying drop. Looking at the label,
maybe we should have had the NV Drappier Champagne ‘Brut Nature, a zero dosage
wine, but its softness made it very approachable and mellow. Often these styles can be pretty austere, but
not this, yet deliciously encouraging the palate and satisfying it
simultaneously. A lovely fine-textured
and balanced bubbly.
We then moved onto the rosé bubbles. The
NV Bollinger Champagne Rosé
NV wasn’t as big and oxidative as expected, and indeed rather restrained and
quite fresh. Sure it was a ‘bigger’ wine,
but not strikingly so, as is usually the case.
I have noticed that the Bollinger ‘Special Cuvee’ has been remarkably
fresh lately, and since the rosé
is based on it, the latter is correspondingly so. And maybe the newness of the shipments coming
into the country are another factor. Distributor
Negociants NZ are onto stocks not hanging around. In any respect, a delicious bottle. Much more subtle was a 2002 Pol Roger Champagne
Rosé, delicate red
florals and fruits, and like the Bollinger, growing in the glass to reveal
more. This was even more layered, and
developed superb richness, while all the time retaining great class and
style. An even more beautiful bottle.
Two Champagnes at ends of the spectrum in seriousness, yet
both very good in their way. An NV Piper
Heidsieck Champagne, now seemingly relegated to the FMCG market, but deserving
much better. Linear, steely and without
the breadth, spread or detail, but with very fine, clean drive. It may have been overshadowed by some of the
more prestigious labels, but this is smart for what it is, and it delivers a
thirst-quenching mouthful. Finally a NV
Jacquesson ‘Cuvee 733’ Champagne, something with all the body and yeast autolysis
‘bells and whistles’, but again not taken to a realm which requires an expert
mind and geeky palate. Well-judged and a
lovely-jubbly bubbly.
With these under the belt (among a dozen of us, and with a hearty brunch), the afternoon was a breeze as you can probably guess.
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