Wednesday, July 24, 2013

Expect the Unexpected


One of our long-time friends, The Rascal has taken his own path and has Inky at his side.  They’ve found it needing hard work, sometimes unexpectedly so, but they have a detailed plan and are taking each step at a time.  Each step is forward, and nowadays, there’s no step backwards.  SWMBO and I were invited into their new home for a down to earth home-cooked meal.  It was delicious, as could be expected, but the wines involved kept us delightfully on our toes.  We should have expected the unexpected, though the wines we chosen not to confuse or surprise, but to show that there’s plenty of variation and choice.
Stylishness set the scece with a 2008 de Ladoucette ‘Baron de L’ Pouilly Fume.  Something I haven’t tasted for a while, the grand-daddy of Sauvignon Blanc as far as I’m concerned.  This was the benchmark three decades ago, and was and still is ultra-refined.  Plus the heavy and unique crested bottle added to the image of class.  New Zealand has taken the path of exuberant fruitiness, and only recently started looking at finesse as ‘Baron de L’ offers.  The bottle is so refined that it’s effortless to drink.  The most subtle flinty, smoky complexities and tight, subtle fruit expression.  The bottle was drained before we knew it.  Something unexpected.

Then onto a Spanish Grenache.  These can be pretty hearty and robust, somewhat rustic.  The 2011 Borsao ‘Tres Picos’ Campo de Borja Garnacha is a thoroughly modern take on the variety, and it is brilliant for it.  Dark as dark, staining the glass, and very aromatic with ripe raspberry jam and red florals lifting the bouquet.  Fresh, modern and clean.  Then a marvel to drink with its sweetness and suppleness.  There’s the faintest hint of earth and background texture.  Some heat shows through.  It isn’t complex or thought-provoking by any means, but a hedonistic, fruity red that goes with anything.  Who’d expect that?

Then with the apple crunble dessert featuring some rhubarb and tamarillo, a 2011 Giesen ‘The Brothers’ Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc.  These aren’t necessarily the most successful wines, as the herbaceous fruit character can seen at odds with the botrytis and honey flavours.  But again, a real surprise.  Essence of greengage and nectarines, decadent with botrytis and tropical fruits, but with great cut from the acidity.  The Sauvignon Blanc fruit matching the apple and rhubarb especially.  I understand it was picked at 67° Brix!  The 285 g/L rs a honey, if you excuse the pun.

We should know better: Expect the Unexpected and enjoy the difference.      

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