Softly Does It

The Roadsters had been on the road for over a month, but they were keen to get together.  We were happy to give them some breathing space, but they were insistent, despite our softly-softly approach.  On arriving, we knew they had pulled out the stops, preparing, cooking and servng a restaurant quality three-course dinner with canapés to start with.  I’m sure they had the wines mapped out, but were gracious enough to open the bottle we brought, even though it’s not really their thing.  The four wines all had the common trait of softness, quite surprising, as they spanned a range of varieties and styles.

The introductory wine was sparkling, no less!  We’ve never come across a NV Bouchard ‘Roses de Jeanne’ Champagne ‘Blanc de Noirs.  Etched on the back label was ‘V09’, and it noted the site ‘Les Ursules’.  Single vineyard, single grower, single variety and single vintage.  More golden than any pink or blush showing, the expression of Pinot Noir was evident, but not forceful.  Neither was the autolysis, but then time on lees was not huge.  It knitted together beautifully and softly.  It’s smoothness was its beauty, and the most subtle gain in richness and depth as the bottle drained was most pleasing.

My thoughts on Chablis becoming less minerally, flinty and acidic were borne out by a 2010 Dauvissat Chablis 1er ‘La Forest’.  Sure it had all the correct flavours of shellfish tang and soft stonework.  Sure it had lovely linearity.  But the acid sear of the past just wasn’t there.  Are growers in Chablis getting the fruit riper?  Is global warming having an effect.  It’s not negative, but it isn’t the same?  The wines are arguably better in this age, as they are softer and less aggressive.  They still have the unique flavour that the Kimmeridgian limestone imparts.  Things must and do change.  But no-one else seems to have made this comment too.

The bottle SWMBO and I brought was ceremoniously poured into a decanter.  We were going to drink it tonight!  The credentials were exemplary, and the night a cold one requiring a big wine, such as this one.  But somehow, the lustre had gone out of the fashionabilty of this wine as The Roadsters are Burgundy nuts.  The initial thinking was to give them something they would never normally drink.  I felt we had brought the wrong wine, and was a little ashamed in not recognising their preferences.  But they said the loved it, and the decanter was drained.  The 2002 Penfolds ‘Bin 707’ Cabernet Sauvignon had developed extremely well.  I usually find the Penfolds house style dominant over the variety.  But 2002 was a cooler growing season, which gave the wines great elegance.  This is why it was still blackcurranty with subtle eucalypt and oaking.  The secondary savoury black olive layering was evident, and the wine is one of density and richness.  But the rounded edges and softened flow allowed it to slip down without effort.  It was still a majestic wine that made you take note.

The end of the night was signalled by the opening of a 2005 Carmes de Rieussec Sauternes.  It had the bold style and clear modern marmalade botrytis of its big brother, but maturity had set in.  Slightly savoury, indicating the best lots had been drawn away into the prime Rieussec label.  Somewhat soft and mellow, tending broad and even.  Not flat, as there was still richness, and good alcohol power.  It’s a tier down, but yet it delivered the sense of decadence any Sauternes should.

After this, we all agreed we should take it softly, and we did the right thing, by heading off to retire…