We were going to be in the district and got the call up to spend some time with Max A Million, as it was long overdue. He was chilled out with his family and we knew we were in for a mellow time, as that’s what they are into. Over the course of the evening we supped our way through a trio of wines, and they were all easy to get into, but delivered some real interest.
We started off with a 1996 Karl Erbes Urziger Wurzgarten
Riesling Auslese. Seemingly more
youthful on nose, but slowly developed to show its maturity with increasing
creaminess and custard notes, plus the obligatory toastiness, The softness and seamlessness now telling us
it was fully ready, if not a little past its apogee.
Then a 2008 Dauvissat Chablis. Surprisingly dense in weight and texture,
this has come on considerably and is now fully mature too. Is modern Chablis less crisp and
flinty-acidic than in the past? Is
global warming playing a part in the modern wines of Chablis. They just don’t seem as zingy and steely as
the used to…
The final wine we meandered to was a very youthful 2011
Joblot Givry 1er ‘Clod du Cellier Aux Moines’, dark with hints of ruby, this
had a ‘New World’ feel to the fruit, near primary, but also intermixed with some
cooler vintage aspects, and a little rusticity as can be expected from the
appellation. This was an intriguing mix
of new and old, and a little out of sorts.
Maybe some time will see it mellow out.
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