Keeping it Sweet

It was one of those happy, flowing Burgundy parties.  Everyone brought along white and red bottles that were something a bit special and/or a bit older, and all very happy to share the love.  It kept the evening very sweet indeed.  The wines that passed my way still had sweet fruit, and this isn’t always the case.

First was a 2008 Fevre Chablis Grand Cru ‘Vaudesir’.  Now getting developed and mature, and showing the typical grand cru density that takes it beyond the classical Chablis terroir expression of flintiness.  More nutty and toasty, though the oaking was handled well, and an underlying sweetness of fruit along the way.  You could hang onto it, but nah, drink it up!

This was followed by a 2005 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er ‘Pucelles’ from the man with Flair.  A wine to go ‘WOW’ over.  Sure it is now on its plateau, but at nearly a decade of age, it has plenty more miles in the tank.  Smooyh, subtle, but with fruit richness and power, but nothing out of place.  Creamy smooth white florals, minerals, nuts and the finest, sweetest stonefruits.

 

Then the reds began with a 2011 A. & B. Rion Vosne Romanee 1er ‘Les Charmes’. Clearly very youthful and purple.  Maybe not the best of the recent years, but this a delight with sumptuously sweet primary dark red fruits.  Supple on palate, and fleshy, without too much brashness of youth.  This was modern stuff to appeal to the whole world, especially the New World.  As it breathed, a little gamey-horsey brett appeared, but by then the glass had been drained! 

My best red of the night came in the form of a 2005 Sylvie Esmonin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er ‘Clos St Jacques’.  Now well- into the secondary spectrum of flavours, with undergrowth, dried herbs, mushrooms and the like, but again retaining a fruit richness and sweetness enlivened by perfect acidity.  There’s power and drive and a bit of guts, as well as good texture and grip, but it all supports the fruit.  The Moon Man knew this would evolve this way, I’m sure.

The final red was the big one.  My Mentor had kept it for its classicism and structure.  A 2002 Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru made its mark on my mind.  Still black-red, and firmly tight, this oozed black and savoury, minerally fruit to the point of essence melded with powdery, flowery tannins.  A core of sweetness ruled the palate line initially, but in the glass, the extraction and seriousness grew and took over.  A textbook, ageworthy food wine.  Always with the fruit sweetness, but other things in charge.