Saturday, February 1, 2014

You be the Judge


An informal gathering of many unlikely suspects drew out a number of decent and proper wines.  As is often the case, a number of less-seen and unusual wines were brought out.  In New Zealand, it’s all about Pinot Noir, which has supplanted Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, though Syrah is making a strong come-on.  The cynics on both sides of the Pinot Noir spectrum say “Syrah is Pinot Noir on steroids” in either a pejorative or complimentary manner
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On this occasion, it was another Pinot Noir-esque variety, St Laurent, the red most well-known in Austria.  The Pinot Noir heritage has be debated ever since it appeared, and the aromatic and flavour profile put alongside the more ‘noble’ Pinot Noir.  There’s textural and acid differences too, but there’s no denying St Laurent is in the same camp.

Out came two New Zealand vintage expressions of the St Laurent wine from Judge Rock – the 2010 and 2011.  Paul and Angela Jacobson champion it, and are supported by Steve Voysey of Spade Oak in Gisborne and John Forrest in Marlborough.  There’s some planted around the place too, including some in Ohau on the Kapiti Coast. 
 
These two were very different, and could be seen as polarising.  The 2010 lighter, more forward with garnet hues.  There’s a rich gamey aroma and flavour, with all sorts of spices, herbs and funkiness.  While the wine seems rather cool and stalky, there’s real sweetness, making it really a delicious drink.  The tannins have begun to become resolved, and it’ll please those who want to drink it now.
 
The 2011 is blacker in colour and blacker in fruit.  Lifted black berries and violets along with boysenberry ripeness.  Savour and gamey herb notes show it is St Laurent rather than Pinot Noir, and the palate line follows a firm thread of fine tannin that counters the fruit trying to be succulent. The wine is youthful, but the acidity soft.  In the end, the tannin prevails to provide a “sandpaper dry finish” according to the winemaker.  This needs a casserole or hearty red meat to soak it it.

Which one is best?  I see merit in both.  You have to taste and drink them so you can be the judge.   

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