The Passage of Years

It was a year ago that we began celebrating The Young One’s coming of age.  Turning 21 is no mean feat, and aw shucks, SWMBO and I are proud of the fella.  His JoLo aka The Youngette is a good girl too, and we like our time together.  The passing of years has seen him do well, and we’ve sampled and drank a number of bottles from his birth year.  From a qualitative wine perspective, 1992 wasn’t that flash.  We’ve been lucky with the wines we’ve had, though a couple of the really big names have let us down.  Not so the Aussies.  Sandwiched between the great 1990 and 1991, and the rather good 1993, the wines from 1992 were always going to suffer.  But on their own, they still look good.

On this dinner, we had much to ‘muse’ about, on how we had all progressed in the passed year, and how far we’d come.  It’s that passage of years analysis.  The wines exemplified it.  1992 Wynns ‘Black Label’ and the flagship ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons.  No contest surely?  But then again, it wasn't supposed to be one, but rather, just a comparison.

The 1992 Wynns ‘Black Label’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon was on its plateau, maybe near the end of that phase and just beginning the gradual decline.  Savoury blackcurrants and olives, and a touch of cedar.  No mintiness as a sign of Coonawarra.  Quite open if not loose in structure and mouthfeel.  Exactly as it should be after two decades plus for a ‘commercial’ wine.  Tannins a little grainy, but not coarse, and the acidity a little elevated.  The fruit still well-defined and varietal.  Not a great one, but really drinkable, accessible and food friendly.

Then onto the 1992 Wynns ‘John Riddoch’ Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon.  A big step up in concentration, density and depth.  Very strong extraction to match the fruit depth.  The fruit is still supercharged.  Blackcurrants, herbs and real mint.  But all infused with savoury spices, cedar and new oak galore.  The structure dry and firm, and that 1992 acidity.  A great statement of power and winemaker input to match the best of the vineyard.  It was something to admire from afar, rather than immerse oneself into.  Maybe you could do that in another decade.  Yes, both this and the ‘Black Label’ had seen the passage of years really well.