We see the world changing as it turns, evolving with the
fads, fashions, needs and requirements.
It results in survival, and the wine world is no different. Wine styles adapt and change to what are new
norms, and invariably they are better norms.
The big, solid, hearty, dense and super-ripe Barossa red saw its era end
over a decade ago, as the makers realised that thick, soupy, solid reds were
losing ground to elegance, freshness and accessibility. With the transition, they’ve managed to
retain the expression of place and the wines still grow in complexity, but they
are lighter on their feet and more enjoyable, and easier to finish a bottle.
It was fascinating to see a wine of the old era demonstrate
exactly the benefits of progress. I’m
not taking anything away from the 1996
Yalumba ‘Signature’ Barossa Cabernet/Shiraz. In its time, it was the bee’s knees. A great growing season and vintage. One of the vey best. Beautifully ripened fruit lending great
richness and extract. The wine just
superbly put together, the best lots of Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz in
approx. equal portions, given lovely oaking.
The result a complete wine in every sense, and one that could and will
last for decades.
But here, tonight, in this current time, almost an
anachronism. A drink of the past. Hazza raised his eyebrows with a querying “what
do you think of that?” We were on the
same wavelength. It was a great wine,
but in today’s context, too big, too dense, too ripe, too soft, too
concentrated. It was recognised as great
wine. But the seam of freshness and
elegance that we crave just wasn’t, and never will be in it. It’s interesting how the greatest Aussie red,
Penfolds ‘Grange’ has remained big and stoically the same style it has always
been. But the sweetness and vitality that
most of the other big reds just miss out on has kept its classic style alive
today. Today’s Yalumba ‘Signature’ has
moved towards sweeter fruit, fresher acid and that balance that lifts the
palate, rather than swamp it. The 2012
is a marvel. Evolution is truly
knife-edge stuff. One style keeps on
going, others fall by the wayside.
No comments:
Post a Comment