Festive times bring out festival bottles, and SWMBO and I caught up with the Lazza, Cazza and Hazza, plus Sazza! There must be some Aussies in that lot! We’ve all been party people at some time of our lives, and we all eventually grow up, and show our true personalities.
Two Champers gave an analogy. The first was NV Pierre Peters Champagne ‘Grand Cru’ Extra Brut Blanc de Blancs, from Mesnil of course. This grower has quite the reputation now, and it’s the amount of reserve wine that gives the house style of a core of savoury intensity and complexity. For a Blanc de Blancs and a Mesnil, quite full-bodied and grunty in dimension, but still underneath it all the acid zest, lifted florals and citrus and earthy minerality. Not only has this producer grown in stature, but the market has grown to see it too.
It initially seemed odd to follow it with the NV Taittinger ‘Folies de la Marquetterie’ Champagne. Single vineyard, high proportion of Chardonnay, as is the house style. Much finer in proportion, and a degree and more of finesse and elegance. Great intensity, yet refined, and a sheer beauty that stood out from the size of the previous wine. It is fantastic to see the great houses explore these more individual bottlings, this not really new now. A sign of maturity and growth.