Tuesday, April 11, 2017

Totally Floored

There was no reason to bring anything weird and wonderful to dinner, but that’s what The Difficult Man does.  He’s a person of broad taste, and that means there’s always variety at his home and when he heads out to meet with others.  It’s certainly not a competition, and there’s no pressure on him to make an impression, but he does it anyway.
On this occasion it was a 2005 Domaine Daniel Dugois Vin Jaune Arbois.  The Vin Jaune wines of Arbois in the Jura are amongst the most distinctive I can think of.  Made from Savagnin which strangely is related to the Traminer variety, the wine that it eventually results in bear no resemblance, due to it being stored under flor, very much as Fino Sherry is.  Pale golden coloured, the bouquet was incredibly intense with pungent yeastiness.  On palate, dry, and the same over-riding pungency.  But also with nutty and savoury flavours, bordering on bitter, but not.  Some phenolic textures and grip, but this carries the flavours to a very, very long finish.  It was a wine to admire, and unless one had seen the style before, quite alien as a table wine.  At 14% alc. it was table wine, but the closeness to an Amontillado was more than superficial.  It was enjoyed as weird and wonderful, but also a classic.  It floored quite a few at dinner.   

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