‘Tis the season to be jolly.
And what makes the season jollier is sparkling wine. It started off innocuously, but built up to a
crescendo over the early evening before leading into the still whites and
reds. It’s a natural progression.
First port of call was with A-Prentice and a lovely rosé Champagne shared with friends. A bottle doesn’t last long, especially when
the contents are delicious. The Chairman
was responsible for the 2009 Moet &
Chandon ‘Grand Vintage’ Rosé Champagne. A surprisingly strong orange-peach-pink
colour, with gorgeously integrated aromas and flavours of red fruits and
florals with the most subtle bready autolysis.
Absolutely spotless without any aldehydes which can be complexing, are
also a sign of funkiness and development in a degradation way. Soft and smooth but under it all a thread of
freshness that gave a piquant lift to make this beautifully poised.
Then around to the dinner venue. As soon as we arrived, there was a glass of NV Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Grand Brut’. Best known for its elegance and freshness of
house style, this delivered it perfectly.
Bright and pale an colour, with up-front and near-forceful aromas of
fresh flotal, apple and citrus fruits, the autolysis was fresh and
brioche-like. The mouthfeel refreshingly
zesty and mouth-watering. The finest
phenolics, but all in great balance.
Another bottle that didn’t last long.
The Lazza has as his bottle, one of his favourites, the NV Taittinger Champagne ‘Folies de la
Marquetterie’ a Chardonnay-dominant (what else could it be with Taittinger?)
single vineyard wine. Not quite as fresh
and zesty on nose and palate, maybe a little more subdued. But then a greater packed core and
density. This has a concentration and
gravitas that took the wine to another level.
Yes a step up. This wine never
fails to deliver the transition from accessible elegance to a depth and
detailed complexing hinted wine. A
bridging wine at its best.
Then finally something home-grown from the Big-O, a 2010 Seresin ‘Moana' Marlborough Methode
Traditionnelle Rosé. The Big-O had a hand in the making of this
wine. 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay, with 3 years on lees, and no
dosage. More faded in colour, but
undeniable presence and a rounded and packed core with subtle layers of
flavours of yellow stonefruits and red florals.
This tastes richer than ‘no dosage’ showing the fruit quality. The autolysis quite integrated, and the
acidity softened. A detailed and quite
achiever, and one that delivered the goods, making one want to try more wine
and more food.
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