Saturday, December 15, 2018

Medley of Bubbly

‘Tis the season to be jolly.  And what makes the season jollier is sparkling wine.  It started off innocuously, but built up to a crescendo over the early evening before leading into the still whites and reds.  It’s a natural progression.
First port of call was with A-Prentice and a lovely rosé Champagne shared with friends.  A bottle doesn’t last long, especially when the contents are delicious.  The Chairman was responsible for the 2009 Moet & Chandon ‘Grand Vintage’ Rosé Champagne.  A surprisingly strong orange-peach-pink colour, with gorgeously integrated aromas and flavours of red fruits and florals with the most subtle bready autolysis.  Absolutely spotless without any aldehydes which can be complexing, are also a sign of funkiness and development in a degradation way.  Soft and smooth but under it all a thread of freshness that gave a piquant lift to make this beautifully poised.
Then around to the dinner venue.  As soon as we arrived, there was a glass of NV Perrier-Jouet Champagne ‘Grand Brut’.  Best known for its elegance and freshness of house style, this delivered it perfectly.  Bright and pale an colour, with up-front and near-forceful aromas of fresh flotal, apple and citrus fruits, the autolysis was fresh and brioche-like.  The mouthfeel refreshingly zesty and mouth-watering.  The finest phenolics, but all in great balance.  Another bottle that didn’t last long.
The Lazza has as his bottle, one of his favourites, the NV Taittinger Champagne ‘Folies de la Marquetterie’ a Chardonnay-dominant (what else could it be with Taittinger?) single vineyard wine.  Not quite as fresh and zesty on nose and palate, maybe a little more subdued.  But then a greater packed core and density.  This has a concentration and gravitas that took the wine to another level.  Yes a step up.  This wine never fails to deliver the transition from accessible elegance to a depth and detailed complexing hinted wine.  A bridging wine at its best.
Then finally something home-grown from the Big-O, a 2010 Seresin ‘Moana' Marlborough Methode Traditionnelle Rosé.  The Big-O had a hand in the making of this wine. 76% Pinot Noir and 24% Chardonnay, with 3 years on lees, and no dosage.  More faded in colour, but undeniable presence and a rounded and packed core with subtle layers of flavours of yellow stonefruits and red florals.  This tastes richer than ‘no dosage’ showing the fruit quality.  The autolysis quite integrated, and the acidity softened.  A detailed and quite achiever, and one that delivered the goods, making one want to try more wine and more food.
What a lovely progression of wines to start the evening…      

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