It's been a busy time with work, so the old treasures have taken a break. But last weekend, a big group of us were eating and drinking, and it was appropriate to add on a pair of old pairs of wines.
A look at a couple of reds at a quarter of a century of age. 1983 Ch. Chasse Spleen alongside a 1983 Cooks Private Bin Fernhill Cabernet Sauvignon. Surely the French aristocrat would be superior to the Antipodean upstart? Not so. While the claret was not old or fading, it was packed with brett. The Kiwi wine was a little unripe and greenish, but it was clean and fresh. Both were surprisingly drinkable. A pair of wines that reminded us to keep an open mind.
Then the next night, a pair of Wynns 'John Riddoch' Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignons. From two vintages which writers and critics say that they will be interesting foils to each other in the future. Both rated top years, the 1990 a perfectly ripe year which the Aussies rated better. The 1991 from a cooler, more elegant vintage, which trendy(at the time forward thinking, cool-climate espouser) types and New Zealanders liked. The 1990 was gloriously integrated with superb cedary notes. The 1991 more earthy and a touch grubby. It might have been a bad bottle, but I couldn't see how it could be better than the 1990. A pair of young ladies present preferred the 1991, 'cos it was their birth year!
Thursday, November 20, 2008
Saturday, October 18, 2008
Distance
Our special and notable visitor, who we see every quarter or so was in town again to do some work. Also in town was the tall Waiheke man, expounding his wares and the Island's. Down here, in Welly, it's quite some distance to that popular spot in the Hauraki Gulf, and the wines from there just don't get the exposure or the continued promotional push. But the tall Waiheke man overcame distance and re-ignited the flame for these northerly wines in many of the wine lovers down here.
So a dinner out at our favourite pan-Mediterranean eating house was in order. A drop of the ever-improving Bollinger 'Special Cuvee' was madatory before heading out. Fresher, more subtle than in the past, whilst retaining the complexity that the house is known for. At the restaurant, a lovely introductory 2007 Neudorf Moutere Riesling, Germanic in style and delicious, the sugar noticeable, but not intrusive. And a taste of a yet-to-be released 2007 Obsidian 'Weeping Sands' Syrah, lovely and spicy, with a touch too much oak toastiness showing at this early stage.
But the feature was a comparison of 1983 Ch. Haut-Brion and 1983 Ch. La Mission-Haut-Brion from the outskirts of Bordeaux city. Neighbours and rivals at the time, and the distance between the properties negligible. Yet in taste and style terms, the distance was a gulf (not a Hauraki Gulf!). The HB started out piercingly resiny-woody and linear with lightness and leanness. The LMHB full with lovely ripe Cabernet. It looked good. Then through the night, the ethereal nature and harmony, plus subtle nuances came out with the HB. It had 'line and length', and was indeed beautiful. However, our special visitor put a case forward for LMHB with its richness and size. Volume was a feature. Both had the Graves 'bricky' note, but it didn't dominate. Pleasingly, neither wine showed the dreaded brett that seemed to be pervading the clarets at the time.
We had a pleasant night with an old friend and a new one, both who live some distance away. But with friends, distance doesn't matter.
So a dinner out at our favourite pan-Mediterranean eating house was in order. A drop of the ever-improving Bollinger 'Special Cuvee' was madatory before heading out. Fresher, more subtle than in the past, whilst retaining the complexity that the house is known for. At the restaurant, a lovely introductory 2007 Neudorf Moutere Riesling, Germanic in style and delicious, the sugar noticeable, but not intrusive. And a taste of a yet-to-be released 2007 Obsidian 'Weeping Sands' Syrah, lovely and spicy, with a touch too much oak toastiness showing at this early stage.
But the feature was a comparison of 1983 Ch. Haut-Brion and 1983 Ch. La Mission-Haut-Brion from the outskirts of Bordeaux city. Neighbours and rivals at the time, and the distance between the properties negligible. Yet in taste and style terms, the distance was a gulf (not a Hauraki Gulf!). The HB started out piercingly resiny-woody and linear with lightness and leanness. The LMHB full with lovely ripe Cabernet. It looked good. Then through the night, the ethereal nature and harmony, plus subtle nuances came out with the HB. It had 'line and length', and was indeed beautiful. However, our special visitor put a case forward for LMHB with its richness and size. Volume was a feature. Both had the Graves 'bricky' note, but it didn't dominate. Pleasingly, neither wine showed the dreaded brett that seemed to be pervading the clarets at the time.
We had a pleasant night with an old friend and a new one, both who live some distance away. But with friends, distance doesn't matter.
Tuesday, October 14, 2008
Sweet Success
After a good night's work, we needed a few wines to settle down. Winemaker men from Hawke's Bay, Marlborough and Central Otago were in attendance.
First up was the new Bollinger Special Cuvee Rose NV. Fuller, softer, broader than the regular 'blanc' Special Cuvee with sweet berry fruit aromas appearing in and out. Not quite the sweet success it was at its first showing a few weeks back.
Then on to a mystery red, which most of us failed in playing wine options. The 2002 de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny was pretty meaty, full and bretty. Or was it lady-bug excretion as with the 2004s? But it all worked in spite of these menaces. More an expression of the vintage than of de Vogue? It was somewhat atypical for de Vogue from whom I expected something more fragrant and ethereal. A sweet success? I'd say so.
Followed by two Sauternes. Would these be sweet successes? The 1986 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey was pale, lifted by VA, but tight and youthful. A lovely dry finish put Hawke's Bay wine man in a spin, as he wished he could replicate it. This was a wine that could handle another decade easily. Then on to the 1989 Ch. d'Yquem, in a half bottle. Intriguingly darker coloured with more evolution. Broad and barley-sugar like, this was medium weighted and still very lively. It didn't climb all over the previous wine, but we imagined what a 1986 Ch. d'Yquem would be like. Both this and the Ch. Laufaurie-Peyraguey were really sweet successes.
First up was the new Bollinger Special Cuvee Rose NV. Fuller, softer, broader than the regular 'blanc' Special Cuvee with sweet berry fruit aromas appearing in and out. Not quite the sweet success it was at its first showing a few weeks back.
Then on to a mystery red, which most of us failed in playing wine options. The 2002 de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny was pretty meaty, full and bretty. Or was it lady-bug excretion as with the 2004s? But it all worked in spite of these menaces. More an expression of the vintage than of de Vogue? It was somewhat atypical for de Vogue from whom I expected something more fragrant and ethereal. A sweet success? I'd say so.
Followed by two Sauternes. Would these be sweet successes? The 1986 Ch. Lafaurie-Peyraguey was pale, lifted by VA, but tight and youthful. A lovely dry finish put Hawke's Bay wine man in a spin, as he wished he could replicate it. This was a wine that could handle another decade easily. Then on to the 1989 Ch. d'Yquem, in a half bottle. Intriguingly darker coloured with more evolution. Broad and barley-sugar like, this was medium weighted and still very lively. It didn't climb all over the previous wine, but we imagined what a 1986 Ch. d'Yquem would be like. Both this and the Ch. Laufaurie-Peyraguey were really sweet successes.
Wednesday, September 24, 2008
Down the Line
It is amazing how things look as you go on. Down the line, you can make a better judgement or final call. We had Mr Marlborough Riesling in town, and after a good night out, we thought that some Cabernet-based wines would be fun, but also perverse. Our humour was not lost on him, as he said "I'm not familiar with this type of wine, but I'll give it a go..."
So on to some 25 y.o. reds. First up was 1983 Te Mata 'Coleraine'. Youthfully red and bright in fruit. Seemingly primary, how odd! But there it was, in beautiful condition, though the bottle was a bit ullaged. As we tried the other wines, this seemed greener, especially to SWMBO. But the next day, still vibrant and fresh, and only a little cool. Down the line, this was surprisingly good.
Next was a 1983 Ch. Beychevelle St Julien. In its day, it was deemed a little dilute. Not a great success, but an Englishman's wine, an elegant wine that is not in your face. On the night, beautifully clean and refined. Everything a claret at a quarter of a century should be. If there was a fault, it dried on the finish. Down the line, this was very fine indeed. A bit of a surprise and a stunner.
Then thirdly, a 1983 Ch. Talbot St Julien. Brett city here. But full and fleshy still. Those who don't mind not knowing the appellation or the variety would enjoy its game and meat flavours. It could have come from anywhere, I suppose. If such things as provenance and varietal identity matter, then the wine is a disaster. We were in the second camp. In its day, it was a wine that punched above its weight. The owners, Cordier, at the time, were hot. Down the line, it was a pity that brettanomyces ruined it.
We gave the three wines our best shot, but couldn't finish them. We called in reinforcements - the Master of the Universe, a good guy friend who is positive on everything. He liked all three wines, so he got to take them home. A good thing to cement our friendship, and keep us 'sweet', down the line!
So on to some 25 y.o. reds. First up was 1983 Te Mata 'Coleraine'. Youthfully red and bright in fruit. Seemingly primary, how odd! But there it was, in beautiful condition, though the bottle was a bit ullaged. As we tried the other wines, this seemed greener, especially to SWMBO. But the next day, still vibrant and fresh, and only a little cool. Down the line, this was surprisingly good.
Next was a 1983 Ch. Beychevelle St Julien. In its day, it was deemed a little dilute. Not a great success, but an Englishman's wine, an elegant wine that is not in your face. On the night, beautifully clean and refined. Everything a claret at a quarter of a century should be. If there was a fault, it dried on the finish. Down the line, this was very fine indeed. A bit of a surprise and a stunner.
Then thirdly, a 1983 Ch. Talbot St Julien. Brett city here. But full and fleshy still. Those who don't mind not knowing the appellation or the variety would enjoy its game and meat flavours. It could have come from anywhere, I suppose. If such things as provenance and varietal identity matter, then the wine is a disaster. We were in the second camp. In its day, it was a wine that punched above its weight. The owners, Cordier, at the time, were hot. Down the line, it was a pity that brettanomyces ruined it.
We gave the three wines our best shot, but couldn't finish them. We called in reinforcements - the Master of the Universe, a good guy friend who is positive on everything. He liked all three wines, so he got to take them home. A good thing to cement our friendship, and keep us 'sweet', down the line!
Tuesday, September 9, 2008
Old and New
A late-night session with Hammer and Makka of the Marlborough Mafia showed the difference between old and new. Often, the old and traditional can look superb, and we can revel in their glory. But in truth, we have moved forward, and the new looks even better. Generally.
After a slap-up feed, we opened up three 1985 wines. Hammer and Makka were both in shorts when these wines were made! First up was a very smart 1985 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ Cabernet/Merlot. Dark, medium weighted and ripe enough. Quite pleasant, really. And good for an oldie, we thought. By consensus, this was the best of the three. Next was the first-ever Stonyridge ‘Larose’ from Waiheke Island. Yes, 1985 was their inaugural harvest. Lighter, more acidic, and greener. Hammer and I found it the least of the trio, but SWMBO and Makka liked it after the ‘Awatea’. It was at least clean. Next was the controversial one. 1985 Ch. Talbot from St Julien. The proverbial zoo, with horses, meat and leather. Brett rearing its ugly head. But sweet and with substance on the palate. Hammer and I could handle it, and it did settle down a bit. But SWMBO, the brett Nazi couldn’t go near it. So an old Kiwi winner!
We needed a treat, so down to the cellar, and out popped a 2002 Yalumba ‘Octavius’ Old Barossa Shiraz. Too tight at first, but developing gorgeous liquorice and spice flavours on a serious palate. It had to get past the VA lift, but, it got better and better. A ‘next day’ wine.
To the ridiculously new. SWMBO brought out some brand-spanking new 2008 rosé wines. 2008 La Strada was pretty and pretty light. 2008 Muddy Water was vibrant, but a spoiled beauty with something grubby there. Curiously enjoyable, though. And then a 2008 Ata Rangi ‘Summer’ Rosé. Excellent fruit, but a touch phenolic and grippy. Should mellow out the roughness in a few months. New wines, but not impressive.
So to a sweeter end. A new 2006 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese. How do the Germans attain that special balance between what Hugh Johnson calls ‘fruity-acidity’, sweetness and low alcohol, to make an absolutely yummy wine? The Schaefer family do it consistently. The have with the wines of old. And they still do, with the wines of new.
After a slap-up feed, we opened up three 1985 wines. Hammer and Makka were both in shorts when these wines were made! First up was a very smart 1985 Te Mata ‘Awatea’ Cabernet/Merlot. Dark, medium weighted and ripe enough. Quite pleasant, really. And good for an oldie, we thought. By consensus, this was the best of the three. Next was the first-ever Stonyridge ‘Larose’ from Waiheke Island. Yes, 1985 was their inaugural harvest. Lighter, more acidic, and greener. Hammer and I found it the least of the trio, but SWMBO and Makka liked it after the ‘Awatea’. It was at least clean. Next was the controversial one. 1985 Ch. Talbot from St Julien. The proverbial zoo, with horses, meat and leather. Brett rearing its ugly head. But sweet and with substance on the palate. Hammer and I could handle it, and it did settle down a bit. But SWMBO, the brett Nazi couldn’t go near it. So an old Kiwi winner!
We needed a treat, so down to the cellar, and out popped a 2002 Yalumba ‘Octavius’ Old Barossa Shiraz. Too tight at first, but developing gorgeous liquorice and spice flavours on a serious palate. It had to get past the VA lift, but, it got better and better. A ‘next day’ wine.
To the ridiculously new. SWMBO brought out some brand-spanking new 2008 rosé wines. 2008 La Strada was pretty and pretty light. 2008 Muddy Water was vibrant, but a spoiled beauty with something grubby there. Curiously enjoyable, though. And then a 2008 Ata Rangi ‘Summer’ Rosé. Excellent fruit, but a touch phenolic and grippy. Should mellow out the roughness in a few months. New wines, but not impressive.
So to a sweeter end. A new 2006 Willi Schaefer Graacher Domprobst Riesling Spatlese. How do the Germans attain that special balance between what Hugh Johnson calls ‘fruity-acidity’, sweetness and low alcohol, to make an absolutely yummy wine? The Schaefer family do it consistently. The have with the wines of old. And they still do, with the wines of new.
Sunday, August 31, 2008
You be the Judge
When a group of wine experts get together and provide special bottles for a special dinner, who really is qualified to make a call on how the different wines show, and make a judgement on them? This was the case at the Judges’ Dinner for the personnel at the heart of the 2008 Liquorland Top 100, held at Citron, the wonderful eating establishment of Rex Morgan and Wendy Hiller, at the end of August. Many of the wines were prized possessions, or were the result of personal input by those present. Bottles of wine were circulated among the 26 or so people, everybody allowed a little taste of each wine, served in flights to accompany the food courses. It seems a little unfair that this commentary is made in these circumstances, but that’s what we do. If you were there, you too could be a judge!
Arrival – Amuse Bouche
On arrival, a glass (or two) of Cloudy Bay ‘Pelorus’ Methode Traditionelle NV was served. The perfect palate cleanser, but it was more classy than that description gives. The Cloudy Bay team have got this down to a fine art. Fresh, clean with good autolysis. On being seated, a rarely-seem in this country Mumm Cremant de Cramant NV, with more interest and complexing sulphide/autolysis notes than this 100% Chardonnay wine should have carried. Though with less atmospheres than regular Champagne, this still was an effervescent conversation piece. And then a bit of a star at the other end of the sparkling spectrum, also from the rejuvenated house of Mumm – the 1998 Mumm ‘Cuvee ‘R’ Lalou, a full, toasty bubbles with Pinot Noir power and concentration. This should develop well. The final bubbles we received was the Highfield ‘ZD’ Methode Traditionelle. Unlabelled, it was a bit of a mystery. A bit of an anti-climax after the Mumm. Eye of the Partridge, with fullish, berryish fruit, a little raw and disjointed, not as austere as it might have been.
Crab and Corn Mousseline on Bisque Nage
A subtle dish for aromatics, and a fine group they were. Absolutely delightful and one of the stars of the night, the 2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett was impeccably fresh, yet penetrating with flavour. A star in the Nahe and all of Germany. The Erni Loosen inputted 2006 Ch. Ste Michelle ‘Eroica’ Washington State Riesling at 12% alcohol just didn’t have the same balance and zing, though it was Germanic in expression on bouquet. Another star was the 2001 S.A. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, showing a little more toasty development, but again, that exhilarating balance of fruit, acidity and sugar. And finally, a 2001 Schlumberger Alsace Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kitterle, wonderfully concentrated and with immense fruit depth of spices, honey and florals.
Cauliflower Scented with Toasted Cumin Soup
Two contrasting wines with the beautifully textured and piquantly flavoured soup. The 2006 Guigal Condrieu ‘La Doriane’ was larger than life with bold Viognier fruit and outlandish new oak. It all worked though, and will come together, as previous vintages have shown. The 1998 Tyrrells ‘HVD’ Semillon was far more restrained, yet took the stage with the Guigal, by way of its remarkable freshness for a wine at a decade of age, and its restrained subtleties. HVD refers to the Hunter Valley Distillery vineyard – so romantic, these Aussies with their names.
Free Range Chicken Galantine with Prawn Ravioli and Celeriac
A Burgundian theme with this more substantial course. The 2005 Ch. de Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Chalumeaux’ was classic stuff, fine and elegant and a down-the-line white burgundy, without a whisker out of place. Our table never got to try the Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru. No details on vintage or vineyard, and very little feedback or discussion on it, so it couldn’t have been earth-shattering! However the 2004 Leeuwin Estate ‘Art Series’ Chardonnay did create a few ripples. Bold as a New World wine can be, but as white Burgundian as a New World wine can be, also. Rich, powerful and intense. New oak well-handled and adding to the statement. And of course a Pinot Noir. In fact, surprisingly, the only Pinot Noir, a 2005 Au Bon Climat ‘Isabelle’ Pinot Noir, an unusual wine for Jim Clendenen, being a multi vineyard blend. It was attractively sweet and ripe, the tannins well enveloped by the sweetness of fruit, but overall, not as big as seen a week before by some of the judges present.
Aged Angus Fillet with Muttonbird Butter on Marbled Roasted Root Vegetables
The main course, and a decadent one with high quality produce. The perfect accompaniment for such a dish must be the more austere, and well-structured, drier reds, and this is what was partnered with it: Two St Emilion wines, arguably the best-showing of the night as a pairing. The 2004 Ch. La Serre St Emilion Grand Cru Classe was rich, sweet, plumy and meaty and perfectly structured as an each-way claret. A wine based on its fruit quality and a pointer to where Right Bank wines can be. Alongside it the 2000 Ch. Mangot ‘Quintessence’ St Emilion Grand Cru, was bigger, richer, more concentrated and showing a great deal more new oak. A bit of a caricature really, but in its own way, it was a wine that had soul and satisfied palate and mind. One diner, sitting at our table, actually worked vintage that year at the property, so it had to be good! Unfortunately, the 1997 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva was dry, leathery and charmless, and the 2004 Coto de Hayas ‘Fagus’ Campo de Borja had a name that was made fun of. But at least this French oak matured old-vine Grenache was tasty and sweetly ripe. Again, one of the attendees had a hand in the making of the wine. It was good for him that it looked pretty good. Wine judges can be a little cruel!
Apple and Mulled Wine Refresher
Spices and ice, this refresher was nice. So spiced wines were the order of the day. To set the scene, a 2005 Francois Villard Cote-Rotie appeared. Sulphides can be subtle and complexing or in reality too much. This was the debate on our table. The framework of the wine was, however, excellent and unable to be criticised in that way. Certainly this was a fuller example. Then came an Aussie set. The 1996 Geoff Merrill ‘Henley’ Shiraz was ‘lifted’ to another class; the fruit was ultra sweet and the richness on another dimension. Wines at that level of extraction and ripeness can always carry a certain amount of extras. More traditional was the 1998 Tatachilla ‘Foundation’ Shiraz. The combination of a very hot year, and as much as one can get out of such fruit showed here. No tricks, just as ripe and rich as possible being the key. Though a ‘cult’ label, the 1993 Mt Langi Ghiran Shiraz showed too much funk. Brettanomyces galore. We understand they have clean up, and this Grampians player is back on track.
Vintage Gouda with Pear, Walnuts and Wafers
A generous serving of cheese and some generous wines to go with it. First up, a medium sized wine, but a big claret, 1990 Ch. Gruaud-Larose St Julien. As is typical, showing plenty of herby Cabernet Sauvignon, and plenty of vitality. Just not in a really refined way. Some judges with their herbaceous meters found it most disappointing, others accepting it as good old-fashioned stuff. Certainly, the Right Bank St Emilions looked better. Then a pair of Barolos, probably the second best pairing of the wines. The 2001 Gaja ‘Sperrs’ Langhe was the modern face of Piedmont. It spoke of Gaja and lovely oaking. Class and finesse with power. Still a baby, though a big baby. And in reality a Barolo. Then a very traditional 2001 Prunotto Barolo ‘Bussia’. Ironically, Prunotto is owned by the innovative Antinori firm. Browner, more evolved, and speaking of Nebbiolo. Tar and dried roses. Fabulous stuff to compare and contrast. Then an Aussie pairing, from the then Southcorp stable at the time. A rather ungainly-looking 1997 Wynns ‘Michael’ Shiraz. Green, sappy, disjointed with fruit, oak and structure all over the place. Whoever brought it. Don’t despair. You probably didn’t make it! Then a special wine, the liqueur-like 1996 Penfolds Grange. Great year, great wine, and a great opportunity. What a most generous donor, who put this wine into the line-up.
Petit Fours
Where else to put up the 1994 Hugel Alsace Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive? Amazingly fresh and unctuous, with freshness of feel. The fruit flavours now developing a curious herb and hair-oil character. Not totally pleasant for all concerned, but a treat for everyone nevertheless.
Epilogue
One of the experienced attendees brought along a couple of ‘treasures’ from the cellar. Just for interest, and without any expectations. I never got to try the 1974 Corbans ‘Claret’ nor the 1973 Seppelts ‘Moyston’ Claret, but I understand they were both OK. It is remarkable how these old commercial New Zealand and Aussie reds can survive. No great distinction in either, but genuinely alive. It never pays to give up on a wine…..
Arrival – Amuse Bouche
On arrival, a glass (or two) of Cloudy Bay ‘Pelorus’ Methode Traditionelle NV was served. The perfect palate cleanser, but it was more classy than that description gives. The Cloudy Bay team have got this down to a fine art. Fresh, clean with good autolysis. On being seated, a rarely-seem in this country Mumm Cremant de Cramant NV, with more interest and complexing sulphide/autolysis notes than this 100% Chardonnay wine should have carried. Though with less atmospheres than regular Champagne, this still was an effervescent conversation piece. And then a bit of a star at the other end of the sparkling spectrum, also from the rejuvenated house of Mumm – the 1998 Mumm ‘Cuvee ‘R’ Lalou, a full, toasty bubbles with Pinot Noir power and concentration. This should develop well. The final bubbles we received was the Highfield ‘ZD’ Methode Traditionelle. Unlabelled, it was a bit of a mystery. A bit of an anti-climax after the Mumm. Eye of the Partridge, with fullish, berryish fruit, a little raw and disjointed, not as austere as it might have been.
Crab and Corn Mousseline on Bisque Nage
A subtle dish for aromatics, and a fine group they were. Absolutely delightful and one of the stars of the night, the 2005 Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett was impeccably fresh, yet penetrating with flavour. A star in the Nahe and all of Germany. The Erni Loosen inputted 2006 Ch. Ste Michelle ‘Eroica’ Washington State Riesling at 12% alcohol just didn’t have the same balance and zing, though it was Germanic in expression on bouquet. Another star was the 2001 S.A. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spatlese, showing a little more toasty development, but again, that exhilarating balance of fruit, acidity and sugar. And finally, a 2001 Schlumberger Alsace Gewurztraminer Grand Cru Kitterle, wonderfully concentrated and with immense fruit depth of spices, honey and florals.
Cauliflower Scented with Toasted Cumin Soup
Two contrasting wines with the beautifully textured and piquantly flavoured soup. The 2006 Guigal Condrieu ‘La Doriane’ was larger than life with bold Viognier fruit and outlandish new oak. It all worked though, and will come together, as previous vintages have shown. The 1998 Tyrrells ‘HVD’ Semillon was far more restrained, yet took the stage with the Guigal, by way of its remarkable freshness for a wine at a decade of age, and its restrained subtleties. HVD refers to the Hunter Valley Distillery vineyard – so romantic, these Aussies with their names.
Free Range Chicken Galantine with Prawn Ravioli and Celeriac
A Burgundian theme with this more substantial course. The 2005 Ch. de Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Chalumeaux’ was classic stuff, fine and elegant and a down-the-line white burgundy, without a whisker out of place. Our table never got to try the Carillon Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru. No details on vintage or vineyard, and very little feedback or discussion on it, so it couldn’t have been earth-shattering! However the 2004 Leeuwin Estate ‘Art Series’ Chardonnay did create a few ripples. Bold as a New World wine can be, but as white Burgundian as a New World wine can be, also. Rich, powerful and intense. New oak well-handled and adding to the statement. And of course a Pinot Noir. In fact, surprisingly, the only Pinot Noir, a 2005 Au Bon Climat ‘Isabelle’ Pinot Noir, an unusual wine for Jim Clendenen, being a multi vineyard blend. It was attractively sweet and ripe, the tannins well enveloped by the sweetness of fruit, but overall, not as big as seen a week before by some of the judges present.
Aged Angus Fillet with Muttonbird Butter on Marbled Roasted Root Vegetables
The main course, and a decadent one with high quality produce. The perfect accompaniment for such a dish must be the more austere, and well-structured, drier reds, and this is what was partnered with it: Two St Emilion wines, arguably the best-showing of the night as a pairing. The 2004 Ch. La Serre St Emilion Grand Cru Classe was rich, sweet, plumy and meaty and perfectly structured as an each-way claret. A wine based on its fruit quality and a pointer to where Right Bank wines can be. Alongside it the 2000 Ch. Mangot ‘Quintessence’ St Emilion Grand Cru, was bigger, richer, more concentrated and showing a great deal more new oak. A bit of a caricature really, but in its own way, it was a wine that had soul and satisfied palate and mind. One diner, sitting at our table, actually worked vintage that year at the property, so it had to be good! Unfortunately, the 1997 Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva was dry, leathery and charmless, and the 2004 Coto de Hayas ‘Fagus’ Campo de Borja had a name that was made fun of. But at least this French oak matured old-vine Grenache was tasty and sweetly ripe. Again, one of the attendees had a hand in the making of the wine. It was good for him that it looked pretty good. Wine judges can be a little cruel!
Apple and Mulled Wine Refresher
Spices and ice, this refresher was nice. So spiced wines were the order of the day. To set the scene, a 2005 Francois Villard Cote-Rotie appeared. Sulphides can be subtle and complexing or in reality too much. This was the debate on our table. The framework of the wine was, however, excellent and unable to be criticised in that way. Certainly this was a fuller example. Then came an Aussie set. The 1996 Geoff Merrill ‘Henley’ Shiraz was ‘lifted’ to another class; the fruit was ultra sweet and the richness on another dimension. Wines at that level of extraction and ripeness can always carry a certain amount of extras. More traditional was the 1998 Tatachilla ‘Foundation’ Shiraz. The combination of a very hot year, and as much as one can get out of such fruit showed here. No tricks, just as ripe and rich as possible being the key. Though a ‘cult’ label, the 1993 Mt Langi Ghiran Shiraz showed too much funk. Brettanomyces galore. We understand they have clean up, and this Grampians player is back on track.
Vintage Gouda with Pear, Walnuts and Wafers
A generous serving of cheese and some generous wines to go with it. First up, a medium sized wine, but a big claret, 1990 Ch. Gruaud-Larose St Julien. As is typical, showing plenty of herby Cabernet Sauvignon, and plenty of vitality. Just not in a really refined way. Some judges with their herbaceous meters found it most disappointing, others accepting it as good old-fashioned stuff. Certainly, the Right Bank St Emilions looked better. Then a pair of Barolos, probably the second best pairing of the wines. The 2001 Gaja ‘Sperrs’ Langhe was the modern face of Piedmont. It spoke of Gaja and lovely oaking. Class and finesse with power. Still a baby, though a big baby. And in reality a Barolo. Then a very traditional 2001 Prunotto Barolo ‘Bussia’. Ironically, Prunotto is owned by the innovative Antinori firm. Browner, more evolved, and speaking of Nebbiolo. Tar and dried roses. Fabulous stuff to compare and contrast. Then an Aussie pairing, from the then Southcorp stable at the time. A rather ungainly-looking 1997 Wynns ‘Michael’ Shiraz. Green, sappy, disjointed with fruit, oak and structure all over the place. Whoever brought it. Don’t despair. You probably didn’t make it! Then a special wine, the liqueur-like 1996 Penfolds Grange. Great year, great wine, and a great opportunity. What a most generous donor, who put this wine into the line-up.
Petit Fours
Where else to put up the 1994 Hugel Alsace Gewurztraminer Vendange Tardive? Amazingly fresh and unctuous, with freshness of feel. The fruit flavours now developing a curious herb and hair-oil character. Not totally pleasant for all concerned, but a treat for everyone nevertheless.
Epilogue
One of the experienced attendees brought along a couple of ‘treasures’ from the cellar. Just for interest, and without any expectations. I never got to try the 1974 Corbans ‘Claret’ nor the 1973 Seppelts ‘Moyston’ Claret, but I understand they were both OK. It is remarkable how these old commercial New Zealand and Aussie reds can survive. No great distinction in either, but genuinely alive. It never pays to give up on a wine…..
Sunday, August 24, 2008
The Hunter Wine Hunter
A special weekend with the main man from the Hunter Valley - The Wine Hunter. He knows wine and he likes to search out and hunt for good tastes from bottles.
In deference to The Wine Hunter, SWMBO and I thought it best to ply him with all sorts - starting with an old Hunter Valley selection. A trio of old Hunter Valley wines, including one that The Wine Hunter had a hand in making would be a good start. First up was a 1989 McWilliams Mount Pleasant 'Homestead' Semillon. Wow, surprisingly OK, with no oxidation or 'past-it' flavours, but it was a bit of a nothing wine, really. Commercial in its day, and less than that now, being weak, watery and plain, though with a touch of toast. Then onto someting older to see if Hunter Valley Semillon can last. The 1979 McWilliams Mount Pleasant 'Elizabeth' Riesling, a Semillon, was 'jiggered'. Oxidised to buggery, and corked on top of it. Blah. However this won't deter us from old Semillons, as we know they can be glorious at over two decades of age. This cost me $8.60 at the end of 1982. The Wine Hunter was responsible for the rarely seen 1986 Tyrrells 'Vat 5' Dry Red, made from Hermitage grapes from the NVC Vineyard. (NVC = New Vine Cuttings - aren't these Aussies so up front and imaginative!) Horses for courses here with brett galore, or the old Hunter 'sweaty saddles'. But dark, rich and sumptuous. Brett can allow wines to work, and this was a super example where it didn't intrude, but added real character. I think The Wine Hunter was happy with it! He brought along a 1997 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was medium weighted and everything it should have been, with savoury complexities to the varietal fruit You can't go wrong with Penfolds, even today.
On to the serious stuff. Two 1982 Right Bank wines, as The Wine Hunter was in Bordeaux a couple of months ago. The 1982 Ch. Beausejour-Duffau St Emilion was elegant, minerally and still with sweet fruit. A moderately expressed wine, and classy with it. Good with food, it came alive and seemed longer on the palate. Lovely, mature wine, quite the opposite of being 'out there', and all the better for it. The 1982 Ch. Nenin Pomerol was bigger, more plummy and weightier, as Pomerols should be when compared with the St Emilions. But brett, with a capital 'B' was there, and got worse with air time. Dried on palate and became extremely difficult to drink, especially with pleasure.
From the sublime to the ridiculous. Kiwi Pinot Noir History 101. The 1985 and 1986 St Helena Pinot Noirs to taste. This was a trip down memory lane, but as time passes, the remembering should not be recalled! The 1985 was fresh, fresh, fresh and green, green and green. The 1986 showed caramelised sugar (chaptalisation) on nose and palate. I remember when it was released, and it was rich and sweet then. To taste history is great, but I know we have moved on! Even more ridiculous were the 1989 Montana Marlborough Pinot Noir - oxidised to buggery, the 1983 Montana Marlborough Pinot Noir - seemingly made with dead animals in the ferment! Plus a 1983 Montana Marlborough Pinotage - the best of these older wines. Still green, but still alive and OK, though I wouldn't drink much of it. Good on you, The Wine Hunter, as at least you were game to look at them.
Last, but not least was a 1983 von Kesselstatt Graacher Graben (or was it a Lay vineyard wine? We couldn't tell - damned torn labels) Riesling Auslese 1983. Absolutely stunning with freshness and gorgeously decadent toastiness. At its very best, now, this shows good German wine at one-quarter of a century of age and on a plateau. Broad, even for a Bernkasteler, but then, relativity is hard to find without a comparison. This, we could drink, and it was indeed drunk up!
In deference to The Wine Hunter, SWMBO and I thought it best to ply him with all sorts - starting with an old Hunter Valley selection. A trio of old Hunter Valley wines, including one that The Wine Hunter had a hand in making would be a good start. First up was a 1989 McWilliams Mount Pleasant 'Homestead' Semillon. Wow, surprisingly OK, with no oxidation or 'past-it' flavours, but it was a bit of a nothing wine, really. Commercial in its day, and less than that now, being weak, watery and plain, though with a touch of toast. Then onto someting older to see if Hunter Valley Semillon can last. The 1979 McWilliams Mount Pleasant 'Elizabeth' Riesling, a Semillon, was 'jiggered'. Oxidised to buggery, and corked on top of it. Blah. However this won't deter us from old Semillons, as we know they can be glorious at over two decades of age. This cost me $8.60 at the end of 1982. The Wine Hunter was responsible for the rarely seen 1986 Tyrrells 'Vat 5' Dry Red, made from Hermitage grapes from the NVC Vineyard. (NVC = New Vine Cuttings - aren't these Aussies so up front and imaginative!) Horses for courses here with brett galore, or the old Hunter 'sweaty saddles'. But dark, rich and sumptuous. Brett can allow wines to work, and this was a super example where it didn't intrude, but added real character. I think The Wine Hunter was happy with it! He brought along a 1997 Penfolds Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon. It was medium weighted and everything it should have been, with savoury complexities to the varietal fruit You can't go wrong with Penfolds, even today.
On to the serious stuff. Two 1982 Right Bank wines, as The Wine Hunter was in Bordeaux a couple of months ago. The 1982 Ch. Beausejour-Duffau St Emilion was elegant, minerally and still with sweet fruit. A moderately expressed wine, and classy with it. Good with food, it came alive and seemed longer on the palate. Lovely, mature wine, quite the opposite of being 'out there', and all the better for it. The 1982 Ch. Nenin Pomerol was bigger, more plummy and weightier, as Pomerols should be when compared with the St Emilions. But brett, with a capital 'B' was there, and got worse with air time. Dried on palate and became extremely difficult to drink, especially with pleasure.
From the sublime to the ridiculous. Kiwi Pinot Noir History 101. The 1985 and 1986 St Helena Pinot Noirs to taste. This was a trip down memory lane, but as time passes, the remembering should not be recalled! The 1985 was fresh, fresh, fresh and green, green and green. The 1986 showed caramelised sugar (chaptalisation) on nose and palate. I remember when it was released, and it was rich and sweet then. To taste history is great, but I know we have moved on! Even more ridiculous were the 1989 Montana Marlborough Pinot Noir - oxidised to buggery, the 1983 Montana Marlborough Pinot Noir - seemingly made with dead animals in the ferment! Plus a 1983 Montana Marlborough Pinotage - the best of these older wines. Still green, but still alive and OK, though I wouldn't drink much of it. Good on you, The Wine Hunter, as at least you were game to look at them.
Last, but not least was a 1983 von Kesselstatt Graacher Graben (or was it a Lay vineyard wine? We couldn't tell - damned torn labels) Riesling Auslese 1983. Absolutely stunning with freshness and gorgeously decadent toastiness. At its very best, now, this shows good German wine at one-quarter of a century of age and on a plateau. Broad, even for a Bernkasteler, but then, relativity is hard to find without a comparison. This, we could drink, and it was indeed drunk up!
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