Consistency and Differentiation

The 19^th century Zante currant vineyard had its new plantings over the footstep of the old, so that growing conditions and experience were similar for consistency.  Strangely enough, the same phenomenon struck me as I had the opportunity of looking at a range of hearty modern reds made by the larger than life B. Riggs in the McLaren Vale under the ‘Zonte’s Footstep’ label that recalls the currant growing.

The wines all carried different names, all funky, as is the rage right now.  Three Shirazes first, a 2010 ‘Chocolate Factory’ McLaren Vale Shiraz, ripe and chocolatey with hints of eucalypt and cedar.  Good depth anD concentrated too.  Then a 2010 ‘Baron von Nemesis’ Barossa Shiraz, very similar again, maybe a little more accessible, but a bit bitter and reductive.  And moving to a 2010 ‘Lake Doctor’ Langhorne Creek Shiraz, touched by a little Viognier, and consequently a little lighter and more mellow in mouthfeel, but brighter in aromatic nature.  All with hints of chocolate, plums, cedar spice and eucalypt.  Surely this consistency must be winemaker signature, as the origins were differet?

Putting the issue further to the test, a 2010 ‘Avalon Tree’ Langhorne Creek Cabernet Sauvignon.  Clearly blackcurranty and leafy even, but in the glass, the tell-tale spicy, cedary oaky and eucalypt signature came out.  Then to an extreme, a 2010 ‘Violet Beauregard; Clare Valley Malbec.  All the Christmas cake spices and dark plums taken to another far-away, exotic place.  Bigger, blacker but there again, eucalypt, liquorice, cedar and spices.  Same story.  And finally, a 2011 ‘Canto di Lago’ Langhorne Creek Sangiovese/Barbera.  Much lighter and less ripe – a function of the vintage?  Certainly red cherries and softer red fruits.  In a reduced expression, the same old story with spices, cedar, liquorice etc, etc, etc.

I concluded it must be winemaker after all these different factors not changing the picture too much.  There’s a place for consistency and also for differentiation.  I like the consistent good quality.  But I could have drunk any of them for the same effect and taste.