Sunday, November 25, 2012

De Loach Pinot Noirs Poached

The Aid-Man has access to all manner of wines and this time he shared a trio of Pinot Noirs made by the Russian River Pinot Noir pioneer De Loach.  Of course the label and the wines were so successful that the company got poached by the burgeoning Burgundy giant Boisset coming up to a decade ago, who have instigated biodynamic grapegowing, as well as growing the brand.  I don’t see too many North American Pinot Noirs, so they were fascinating.

The 2011 De Loach ‘Heritage Reserve’ California Pinot Noir is the basic level, despite the lofty sounding name.  Upfront and straightforward, correct raspberry fruit, but featuring a smooth and near-unctuous texture.  There’s not much nuance or detail, but it slipped down well.  Up a level to the 2011 De Loach Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.  And a better wine to.  Quite lush and succulent, with florals and herbal interest, and again with a smooth, flowing texture and mouthfeel.  The third was the 2010 De Loach ‘OFS’ Russian River Valley Pinot Noir.  ‘OFS’ means ‘Our Finest Selection’ and is a selection from different vineyards, somewhat disregarding the concept of site expression and terroir that is hot with Pinot Noir, and more in showing the region.  Deeper, more savoury and more layers of interest here, maybe a little worked with oak resins peeking through.  But again, that trademark smooth, slipperiness, this time in a plumper style and rounder mouthfeel.  Quite delicious.

The New Zealand Pinot Noir wines I see more of are certainly more lively, acid-expressive and sharper in outlook.  I see more detail and complexity, but these Californians worth worthy of tasting and drinking.  The Aid-Man has wide-ranging interests and a wide reach to get such interesting wines.  Thank you!    

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