Growing in Brightness

It was the night of the popular pyrotechnics display, and in a typical show of generosity, The Capital Man invited us to view the fireworks from his residence which has a commanding presence over the harbour. The Capital Man has been collecting wine for a very long time and has had the means to amass a wondrous cellar, but as in many such cases, has not had the time to drink the bottles in a timely fashion, resulting in many wines moving past their best.  For him, it was an opportunity to share a few with visitors.  Among those taking advantage of the vantage point was His Eminence and his family, he being a South American man who self-effacingly professes to know little about vinous matters, but in reality knew plenty.  There was plenty to talk and laugh about, and there was a growing realisation of how much ground we could cover.  The night got brighter as we all got to know each other, and the fireworks built to a crescendo.

A vertical of old Palliser Estate Riesling from Martinborough was extremely interesting.  The 1992 was certainly on the way downhill.  Oxidised, with very soft textures, but still attractively honied.  Curiously very drinkable, though knowing the bruised apple flavours indicated its true state.  The 1995 was much less aged, even though only 3 years younger.  A trace of oxidation, but still with citrus fruit residue.  Tertiary toast and earth aromas and flavours and searing acidity.  Despite good aromatics of lime and toast, with petrolly hints, this was rather astringent and dried on palate.  Then onto a 2005.  A beautiful wine, clearly packed with fruitiness, exuding limes along with bright energy and wonderful balance of sweetness, fruitiness and acidity.  A thread of toastiness intermixed with honey made it beguilingly succulent.

A pair of Felton Road Central Otago wines were highlights.  The 1999 Dry Riesling clearly aged with a combination of lime and toast, but the slippery acidity and lush mouthfeel gave it a semblance of sweetness, even though the wine was dry.  SWMBO was taken by this wine.  The Capital Man followed this by opening a 2000 ‘Block 5’ Pinot Noir.  Muscular and mushroomy, with sweet and savoury red fruits merging with earth, truffle, meat and game nuances.  Lovely acidity, and plenty of structure and mouthfeel.  His Eminence was a fan of this one too.

Two older reds made for real curiosities.  I don’t see too many older Italian wines, so a Chianti over three decades of age was anticipated highly.  The 1981 Antinori ‘Marchesi’ Chianti Classico Riserva was fairy gutsy and robust, with a mass of savoury, gamey, sour cherry fruit in its tertiary state.  More earthy and a touch dirty, rather than full-on grubby.  Good acid raciness, and fine tannins in the background, and drying out a little.  Interesting, but not one to stay on.

Then a blast from my past, a 1969 Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy Bin 3803.  I’ve had many a bottle of these Hunter Valley Shiraz wines in my formative years.  Still with dark garnet red heart to the colour, this featured a distinctive charry, reductive, spice, resiny and animal character that I hadn’t seen before.  Still with fruit sweetness, but heading down the dry path.  Soft, but with a solid residual core.  I doubt this will ever move to the beautiful ethereal and layered expression, but it was still a wonder to taste.

As the night got darker, we all became a little more enlightened.