On the starter front, there’s the Hidalgo ‘La Gitana’
Manzanilla ‘En Rama’. Unadulterated
sherry, that’s if Manzanilla can be unadulterated, as it’s the purest form of
the flor-infused style already. But
straight from the cask, this has become a trendy drink. Softer, more gentle, maybe a little richer in
flavours, but with the acridity less pronounced. Deliciously intriguing. The other aperitif, was the old (and more
preferable) Pelorus label of Cloudy Bay.
Plain white in colour and easy on the eye. The new label has the misty mountain peak
scene which is so passé. But it’s what’s in the bottle that
counts. This NV Cloudy Bay ‘Pelorus’
classical Chardonnay, but with no austerity are harsh linearity. Soft, refined, smooth as silk. Maybe a little more autolytic yeastiness
would have made it a star.
Aromatics next. A new
arrival, a 2011 Gruss Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer ‘Vorbourg’. Ultra-modern, with bold, but manicured exotic
and opulent rose-petal and gingeriness.
Everything you might want, but toned-down to be acceptable to those who
could be offended by excess. Delicious
nevertheless. And something
unexpected. A 2002 Esk Valley Central
Hawke’s Bay Riesling, at 10% alc. I
though this to be aged German, probably from the Rheingau or maybe a little
warmer. Those cream custard, honey and
toast characters say it all. Layers of
intricate complexities work their way out in the glass. SWMBO and I were amazed by it. However, its provenance showed, and it faded
over the night, becoming flatter and a little more clearly oxidised
.
You can’t beat Chardonnay for holding your attention when it
comes to whites. An unlikely couple,
paired by variety and vintage only, and at opposite ends of the spectrum of
style. Firstly the New World up-front and
unsubtle 2007 Moss Wood Margaret River Chardonnay. Fat, weighty, and a tonne of oak barrels
dissolved into it. You can’t deny its
richness and power. Archetype Aussie
with being out there, and somewhat loud in the most loveable way. Paired to a delicate and demure 2007 J-P
& Benoit Droin Chablis Grand Cru ‘Vaudesir’. Totally soft and delicate. The taste of flint and chalky white
stonefruits. Plenty of quiet
weight. You needed to search for it. This was surprisingly soft and non-steely, as
grand cru can be. Gordy and I pondered
if climate change was softening the acidity in modern Chablis?
Finally, two diverse reds.
I loved the 2010 Wynns ‘V & A Lane’ Coonawarra Cabernet/Shiraz. Just the right blend of both varieties,
gently melding with each other, Dark
fruits with restrained red fruits, and silky fine tannins to underline the
sweet fruit to prevent it being obvious.
This just wanted to make friends, like a Labrador. Then a mystery red. Its dark black mahogany and garnet colour
told us it was a wine with some years under its belt. I reckoned at least a decade. The linear, ripe and blackened fruits didn’t
speak Pinot Noir, nor did it show spices and pepper of Rhone. I guessed Bordeaux. Old World for sure with the building and
dryer textures. Rhone it had to be, and
a serious one in the Hermitage mould.
Everything became revealed in increments. Thought was needed to unravel its
personality. Maybe a bit like
Gordy! On the track, but not quite
there, we were relieved of our guessing agony.
A 1999 Guigal Cote-Rotie ‘Chateau d’Ampuis’. I justified my inability to discover its
identity by believing the wine was too subtle and slow in unfolding. Whatever.
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