Thursday, March 14, 2013

Preserved by Sugar

Just a few short weeks ago, I was disappointed by a mini-vertical of Montans Gisborne Chardonnay from 1980 to 1982.  Well, actually I wasn’t, as I wasn’t expecting them to be any good, and they weren’t!  These came from the ‘Long Lost Cellar’, and there are still a few bottles to go.  So onto a trio of sweeter wines from around the same age.  These were much more interesting, and alive.  Sugar is a preservative…  

At 26 years old, the 1987 Penfolds ‘Ne Plus Ultra’ Late Pick Rhine Riesling was a smart wine in its time, 25 years ago.  The label didn’t say so, but it was Marlborough fruit.  ‘Ne Plus Ultra’ meant ‘thus far and no further’ suggesting this was the ultimate.  For this Montana owned label, it may have been so.  It was decidedly luscious and hedonistic at the time.  Now dark toffee in colour and in character, this was still identifiably Riesling.  It was still sweet and lush and more than just drinkable. It was enjoyable!  Sure, it was well past its best, but hanging in there fine!  A remarkable wine in today’s context of how much further we really have gone.

Then onto the mysterious 1985 Montana Auslese.  I knew all about it a quarter of a century ago, but with an ad hoc label mentioning nothing other than 12% alc. I can’t confirm my recollections.  I believe it is Muller Thurgau.  Certainly late picked.  Botrytis affected?  Possibly.  Marlborough fruit too, I still reckon.  This was never released commercially, and I managed to beg a few bottles which I enjoyed early on in its life.  It was an experimental wine, a plaything for the winemakers.  Nowadays, burnish mahogany colour with toffee, caramel and barley sugar.  Very sweet, but now with a thread of drying texture.  SWMBO was pleasantly surprised.  So was I, but now on the way downhill. 

The last of the trio, a 1980 Delegats ‘Reserve Bin’ Auslese Muller-Thurgau.  Made by John Hancock, and from Gisborne fruit.  Only 9% alc., and an award winner and prestigious to collect.  This bottle severely ullaged, and with a wet and black cork, leaking for a long time – maybe around 30 years of its 33 year life!  On pouring, another mahogany monster in looks, but far more gentle and indeed lighter.  Beautifully honied and succulent in an elegant way.  Lovely textures and no drying out.  But with time in glass, some undesirable mouldy, murky nuances appeared.  A bit grubby in the end, becoming decrepit.  Oh well, it was good while it lasted.

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