At 26 years old, the 1987 Penfolds ‘Ne Plus Ultra’ Late Pick
Rhine Riesling was a smart wine in its time, 25 years ago. The label didn’t say so, but it was
Marlborough fruit. ‘Ne Plus Ultra’ meant
‘thus far and no further’ suggesting this was the ultimate. For this Montana owned label, it may have
been so. It was decidedly luscious and
hedonistic at the time. Now dark toffee
in colour and in character, this was still identifiably Riesling. It was still sweet and lush and more than
just drinkable. It was enjoyable! Sure,
it was well past its best, but hanging in there fine! A remarkable wine in today’s context of how
much further we really have gone.
Then onto the mysterious 1985 Montana Auslese. I knew all about it a quarter of a century
ago, but with an ad hoc label mentioning nothing other than 12% alc. I can’t
confirm my recollections. I believe it
is Muller Thurgau. Certainly late picked. Botrytis affected? Possibly.
Marlborough fruit too, I still reckon.
This was never released commercially, and I managed to beg a few bottles
which I enjoyed early on in its life. It
was an experimental wine, a plaything for the winemakers. Nowadays, burnish mahogany colour with toffee,
caramel and barley sugar. Very sweet,
but now with a thread of drying texture.
SWMBO was pleasantly surprised.
So was I, but now on the way downhill.
The last of the trio, a 1980 Delegats ‘Reserve Bin’ Auslese
Muller-Thurgau. Made by John Hancock,
and from Gisborne fruit. Only 9% alc.,
and an award winner and prestigious to collect.
This bottle severely ullaged, and with a wet and black cork, leaking for
a long time – maybe around 30 years of its 33 year life! On pouring, another mahogany monster in
looks, but far more gentle and indeed lighter.
Beautifully honied and succulent in an elegant way. Lovely textures and no drying out. But with time in glass, some undesirable
mouldy, murky nuances appeared. A bit
grubby in the end, becoming decrepit. Oh
well, it was good while it lasted.
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