German Invasion

The Germans are coming.  That was the fear in Britain three-quarters of a century ago.  With regard to Riesling and Pinot Noir in New Zealand nowadays, it would be a welcome invasion.  New Zealand has become pretty adept at making very smart, clean, fruity Rieslings and Pinot Noir that look good in the modern world.  But where do we head from here?  How do you make wines that are a little different, offering more interest, complexities and textures?  Some of our makers are already doing it with Riesling, with indigenous yeasts, botrytis, lees work and even some oak.  But how do we make Pinot Noir that is still classic, but not too classic as in Burgundy?  It has been touted we can take the wines of Germany as models for our future.  The F-Man, who is one of these supporters of the German styles opened a couple of wines to show us why.

Firstly a 2012 Clemens Busch Pundericher Marienberg GG Mosel Riesling Trocken.  13% alc., and showing wild yeast and a touch of botrytis, with lees work.  Typical of the new wave dry Rieslings at the top level in Germany.  More yellow in colour, aroma and taste, rather than citrus and white florals.  Dry for sure, but with richness, lusciously ripe fruit and plenty of fruit weight.  Not overdone in the phenolics at all, and quite soft acid.  The spread of flavours revealed complexing layers of reduction, honey, caramel and flint.  Complexity plus plus.  SWMBO and the Mo-ment Girl were impressed.  I had thoughts that this is where Pegasus Bay is headed to.

At this year’s Pinot Noir Celebration, a guest speaker saw the connection between New Zealand and German Pinot Noir rather than with the Cote d’Or.  She was poo-pooed of course, as we all want to make grand cru, or at least 1er cru burgundy, don’t we?  The 2012 Wittman Westhofer Spatburgunder Trocken Rotwein was a fulsome 13.5% alc.  Good colour, and a bouquet that would sit in among the clay-soiled Pinot Noirs from Nelson or Marlborough.  Westhof has clay soils too, with some limestone.  So all good there for a valid comparison.  On the palate more even, soft, rounded and maybe more forward.  Our wines hold the palate fruitiness better?  Nevertheless quite easy and deliciously so.  This is no weak example as German Spatburgunder was in the past.  It’s good clones, vineyards, experience and maybe climate change which makes wines such as the Wittman particularly exciting.