Stemming from Stemware

We all know how subjective wine tasting, assessment and even enjoyment can be.  The myriad of influences on how we perceive a wine takes it far away from science and into the realms of art and philosophy.  Surely some of the simplest things are the situation you are in, the people around you, bottle variation and the glasses you drink from.  Any thought, let alone investigation into any of these factors will open a can of worms. 

 

This was borne out by two bottles of 2012 Yves Cuilleron Condrieu ‘Chaillets’ served only 5 days apart.  The bottles came from the same box, from the same shop, purchased because it’s a classic expression of Condrieu and Viognier that is great for sharing for the sheer love of it.  The first on a Sunday afternoon, sunny and bright, with The Real Mr Parker and friends.  We drank this out of tulip-shaped glassware, poured straight from the bottle.  This was sensational in its aromatic beauty, with exotics galore.  Lovely rounded, smooth and unctuous in texture, just oozing opulence.  We all just sat back and admired it, sipping a little more quickly than we should have. 

 

The next at a fine dinner in the evening in fine, plush surroundings, that you’d be as happy as a hippo there.  SWMBO, The Young One and The Youngette, The Chairman and The MoMent Girl all therecomfortable as could be, sinking into the comfy chairs, and everything delivered with aplomb.  This bottle decanted and served in bowl-shaped stemware normally used for Chardonnay and white burgundy.  This bottle startling in difference.  Shyer in aromatics, but definably Condrieu and Viognier.  The structure, phenolics and textures to the fore.  Quite grainy to drink, and when the poultry and seafood came out, it the wine came into its own.  The combination of food and wine smoothing out the grip and intensifying the aromatics to show stonefruit cut.  A different beast to the one 5  days earlier.  The difference I determined stemming primarily from the stemware.