Retaining Freshness or Developing Complexity

It’s a matter of preference whether you prefer wines which retain their freshness of develop complexity.  The situation can affect your preference too, along with the food served and the company kept.  One tries to keep an open mind, and appreciate both sides of the coin, and it is indeed a fine balance whether a wine hasn’t developed enough interest or gone too far in time.  With older bottles, variation comes into play.

So when the Ravellers and the Roaders got together for a meal, out came a couple of older New Zealand Pinot Noirs, served blind in the usual testing way.  The 1999 Ata Rangi Martinborough Pinot Noir was clearly aged, but deep, dark, fulsome and still brooding, with plenty of game and savoury aromas and flavours.  This still has sweetness, and the ripeness was apparent.  And the structure featured, though the breadth was now exceeding the depth.  A touch of cherry cola aspect showed its secondary stage.  Complex for sure, but had this bottle gone too far?  I’ve really enjoyed this wine for how it has retained its ‘pinosity’.   

This was followed by the 1998 Mt Difficulty Central Otago Pinot Noir.  Black coloured still, indicating its youth.  Lovely black  fruits, without any over-ripeness, nor any undue age.  Traces of primary sweet berryness, and plenty of mineral notes.  The tannins fine-grained, sitting a little back, and still with freshness from the acidity.  Lovely poise and with some way to go.  Tonight it was freshness that won the evening.