There’s a group of Austrian vineyards that are being single
out as particularly good. Besides the
Kamptal DAC Reserve classification, top producer Brundlmayer has sites with the
1OTW moniker, these being Premier Cru vineyards. It was fun and eye-opening to be able to try
two. The 2013 Brundlmayer Kammerner ‘Lamm’ 1OTW Gruner Veltliner DAC Reserve instantly
surprised with its exotic tropical fruit aroma, revealing wonderfully aromatic
pineapple and yellow stonefruit notes.
Quite dry on palate, the fruit lusciousness made it seem sweet and
decadent. This just unfolded richness
and layers of flavour, building in refined textures. A hint of oak emerged. The mouthfeel of the wine took over as the
focus. Finishing dry but with exotic
nuances, this was an eye-opener for us.
Then the 2013 Brundlmayer Langenloiser ‘Kaferberg’
1OTW Gruner Veltliner DAC Reserve. A
different beast to the Lamm, showing the influence of the site and its
soils. A full, stronger and bolder wine
with oxidative handling, still exotic stonefruits, but nutty notes, and more
textural and fuller and firmer in palate presence. Not only nutty, but with herbal notes as well
as the exotic fruits. Laters of complex
interactions here. I suspect the ‘Lamm’ would
entice the drinker and the ‘Kaferberg’ draw in the winemaker. However, we were fascinated by both.
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