We have a particular interest in the St Laurent variety, but
in reality don’t profess any true or deep expertise. It’s just that SWMBO works with it in her
vast portfolio. We get to taste one man’s
interpretation of it every year, and we do try to taste as many other examples
made here, and especially from Austria.
The ones made here capture the fruitiness of the variety, but don’t have
the more interesting flavours, or the textures in the right (?) balance. But having said that, a number of the real
McCoys have been spoilt by brettanomyces.
Which is better? It’s
subjective.
However, a 2009
Pittnauer St Laurent ‘Alte Reben’ from the Burgenland changed our minds in
favour of the genuine article. Gerhard
Pittnauer is a specialist with it, and also makes top end Pinot Noir, and his
vineyards are biodynamic. This is a
single site wine from old vines, and aged 18 months in large oak, so it leaves
the fruit as the hero. The funky label
suggests what this wine is all about.
Dark coloured, a little age showing, but with an intense and complex
amalgam of dark red and black fruits along with herbal elements. The wine is firm and intense, with
well-judged structure. It isn’t firm,
but has an accessibility too. The
flavours are savoury and interesting, but also rich and sweet, though with
restraint. There’s a hint of game and mineral detail, and nothing to spoil it
as with a number of its compatriots. A
wine to admire indeed.
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