It never ceases to amaze me how with one style of wine you
can approach perfection going in opposite directions. Perfection is not something to narrow in on,
but to go forth and seek out. It is both
objective and subjective… Whoa, don’t go
to philosophical discussions where you know too little…. Two sweet wines served on one night came close
to perfection. Yet they were so very
different. They both just missed out on
being seen as good as they could be by the slimmest of margins in the least of
details. Mr Magic and Mags, along with
SWMBO and I were enjoying a lovely afternoon and early evening tasting and
drinking all manner of wines, when it was time to move into the dessert styles.
The first was the 2013
Esk Valley Hawke’s Bay Late Harvest Chenin Blanc. A beautiful, even light golden colour, the
aromas and flavours of honey and flowers were enriched by stonefruits and ripe
citrus fruit marmalade. A touch of
botrytis maybe? Maybe not as 2013 was
super dry. Very harmoniously integrated, with flashes of raisins and oak. The acidity is seamless and perfectly
balanced. Spotlessly clean and
pure. Innocence personified, without any
corruption. This was the best New World
interpretation of a Sauternes I reckoned I’d seen for yonks. The figures aren’t Sauternes territory, with
10% alc. and 204 g/L RS, and winemaker Gordon Russell would prefer to drink it
earlier, I know, but it’ll keep. It only
it had a little botrytis complexity to make it street-wise, then it would foot
it with great Sauternes. Then it’d be
closer to perfect.
We had to match it with something as good. So it was a long-kept bottle, given to us as
a gift. The 1998 Fromm ‘La Strada’ Marlborough Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese. This was a special wine for Hatsch to make,
in cahoots with guest vigneron Daniel Vollenweider. If there was any wine seeping on the barrel,
Hatsch’s finger would wipe it up to be licked and savoured. It poured a dark mahogany colour into the
glass. Oozed would be a better
description. Dense and savoury with dark
toffee, caramel and even some molasses.
Even more decadent and thick, more than unctuous. But under it all, a remnant of finesse that
Riesling gives, and that acid cut. It
took 4 years to ferment to 5.5% alc., leaving 360 g/L RS, but balanced by TA
12.4 g/L and a pH of 2.83, but it seemed
like 3.83. Like the 2013 Esk Valley,
botrytis-free, as it was such a dry year too.
But shrivel and raisins galore.
This is immortal liquid toffee, and I’d say Hatsch would agree. Only 75 L were made, giving 185 x 375 ml
bottles. If only there was botrytis, and
it was less outrageous, maybe a tad cleaner, it’d be perfection in my books.
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