This is not the first time this title has been used in the
context of wine. All wine enthusiasts
are aware that the clone of a variety is important in how it takes to
rootstock, and if it prefers certain soils over others. They can grow very differently and yield in
ways that vary widely from each other.
This is why different clones have been developed in the search for
vinous perfection! However in today’s
environment of provenance being one of the most important factors to be aware
of in the style of a wine, most consumers will put clones down to the next
level of interest. Not so viticulturists
and winegrowers.
Few winegrowers will say that there is one ideal clone, and
certainly Kai Schubert and Marion Deimling took the approach of planting 8
different clones of Pinot Noir to make an elegant and sophisticated wine with
built-in complexities, partially resulting from the mix of clones. The planted their ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ near
Gladstone over 1999 and 2000, and have had nearly 15 years of experience with
the vines, the fruit and the wines.
Their ‘Estate’ Pinot Noir utilises all of the clones planted – as long
as all are successful in the growing season.
That’s another aspect to having different clones – insurance for the
elements.
But from the start, Kai and Marion decided to bottle limited
amounts of wine based on clonal differences.
The confusingly labelled ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ Pinot Noir is actually a
selection of fruit from clone 5 (the Pommard clone), Abel (the gumboot clone)
and the 10/5 (one of N.Z.’s originals).
To match this is the ‘Block B’ Pinot Noir is a selection of Dijon
clones, 115, 667, 777, 114 and 113, the newer arrivals. This is from ‘Block B’ in ‘Marion’s Vineyard’.
Kai and Marion, and wine lovers have found consistent
differences between the wines, and these are exemplified by the 2016 Schubert ‘Marion’s Vineyard’ Wairarapa
Pinot Noir and the 2016 Schubert ‘Block
B’ Wairarapa Pinot Noir. The former
is light ruby-red in colour and is redolent of red berry fruits, florals and
dark and dried herbs. The palate has a
gorgeous approachability to it. You
could say it was ‘feminine’. The latter
is dark-red and black hued in colour. It
has black fruits, dark herbs, minerals and game. It is deep and fulsome, with plenty of firm
tannin grip. You could call it ‘masculine’. The wines are vinified much the same, though
the ‘Block B’ deserves and gets a touch more new oak. Otherwise it’s all down to clonal
selection. Which is your
preference? Most punters love the size
and power of the ‘Block B’, hence its dearer price. Some, such as SWMBO and I love the beauty of
the ‘Marions’s Vineyard’. It’s a tie for
us two. Both are delicious, high quality
wines.
No comments:
Post a Comment