Sunday, June 17, 2018

Nearly There

At any dinner party with The Roaders, one can expect some pretty exciting wines.  They’ve never skimped and no expense is spared.  They have a wonderful cellar that I understand is hard to keep track of, and as with all of us mere mortals, we pluck something out and hope for the best.  I don’t think it was quite like that then The Roader brought out their burgundy, a field which they specialise in.  Usually we can expect fireworks, but even they can be a little surprised.
The wine for drinking was the 2006 Jean Grivot Echezeaux Grand Cru.  Domaine Jeam Grivot, under the management of Etienne is one of the region’s most highly respect producers, making great wine.  The domain has 15 ha over 22 appellations with the Clos de Vougeot, Echezeaux and Richebourg as the super-stars.  Echezeaux is no slouch, though often seen as a ‘second level’ grand cru due to its large 34.8 ha size with considerably variably depending on the position of the wines.  Then the 2006 vintage, a warm finish, giving reds that are maturing earlier than vintages around it.

To be honest, not all the stars are aligned here, and the wine tasted that way.  Still deliciously classy Burgundy, but just missing out on that extra spark.  Now garnet red after over a decade in the bottle, this had smooth and refined presence of red berry fruit and red florals, integrated herbs and earthy complexities, but where’s the spark?  The fruit a little high-toned – an indication of the warmer vintage said The Roader.  And the tannins just beginning to resolve, lending a slippery flow.  This is in name grand cru burgundy from a great name, but tonight, not quite doing the job of delivering pleasure that brings a smile to your mouth.

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