Heart of Steel

Some of the world’s greatest wines achieve a balance and juxtaposition of components and characters that seem other-worldly.  I suspect that’s why they are special wines.  They don’t have to be large in dimension or layered with complexity, but their sheer poise and incredible finesse that makes them what they are.  It usually stems from the vineyard in a particularly favoured site and aspect, with the ideal soils and appropriate variety, interpreted by a grower and winemaker in tune with the vintage.  These are a few factors there that are difficult to achieve, already!  Then, there some luck.

SWMBO and I were in luck.  We were invited to dinner with the Bassinett Babes, and they produced a 2004 Egon Muller Scharzhofberger Riesling Spatlese.  This is truly one of those great wines which have all the stars aligned.  The Saar region of the Mosel just doesn’t quite achieve the ripeness that the Middle Mosel does, being tucked down a protected valley.  The wines are generally much more steely and acidic.  But then the Scharzhofberger site is perfectly positioned, its aspect capturing more sunshine and heat than any of the neighbouring vineyards.  It has been proven over time that Riesling performs best in the fine, weathered slate soil.  The 2004 vintage at the time highly rated, but now joined by many more sine – climate change?  And then there’s the work of the undisputed master, Egon Muller.  The Egon Muller Scharzhofbergers have no equal.

This bottle we sipped on was a stunner.  Fully mature now, but with no need to drink it up in a hurry.  Brilliant light golden, and decidedly elegant in proportion.  This was made from healthy fruit which grew richer and richer in degrees, and that’s how this wine unfolded.  Beautifully rich with floral, honey, lime, a touch of toast and cream custard, but still fresh and zesty with its immutable heart of steel.  We had a number of great wines that night, but this was one of the superstars.