As we face our challenges, we must approach them knowing there is more life ahead. As part of facing a particular tough time ahead, there came the chance to open two bottles, one new, one old, with the Planning Man and The Boss.
First up was the 2006 Cloudy Bay 'Te Koko' Sauvignon, just released. Subtle, wonderfully harmonious and integrated, yet with layers of flavours that gave the barest hint of its Sauvignon heritage, but more of what the smart team of winemakers that shaped it did. The news that Head Man at Cloudy, Kevin Judd, is to leave, and that his right hand winemaking WOman has left is sign of trouble at mill. These big corporates have no feeling for people. That's for true. The big machine behind Cloudy Bay will make sure they get plenty more life ahead out of the brand, and no doubt make very good wine. The exiting humans will find freedom and their lives ahead become more meaningful, as they do, overcoming any challenge.
Then a Deinhard 1983 Kaseler Nie'schen Riesling Auslese. Deinhard was a big name over a quarter of a century ago. Landowners as well as brand-owners - Deinhard 'Green Label' Mosel Riesling. This introductory wine seemingly died, but has seen more life again in the likes of Loosen's 'Dr L'. You can't keep a good thing down. The oldie was good golden, and refined with subtle custard and toast aromas and flavours. The barest lean crispness and a hint of drying out. Drink up, but if you pushed it, there was more life ahead. These old Ruwer wines had plenty of sulphur and tart acidity, even in 1983, to ensure it would see it through to times of old. But their true nature and glory come out to be admired eventually.
Sunday, March 8, 2009
Saturday, March 7, 2009
30 Years
It's the 30 year anniversary of Montana Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc this weekend. N.Z.'s most important grape variety and arguably the most important producer in terms of size and consistency. Lots has happened since then.....but the wine is still being made, and proudly. We had our own celebration, with some of the earlier vintages. To tell the truth, some of the wines were not inspiring, but some were still O.K. Here's a run down of what we looked at:
First made in 1979, that wine didn't last well. 1980 was a cracker, but we didn't look at either of those. 1981 was our first, found in the old cellar. Still varietal, some soft asparagus, greener acidity, but faded. Our 1982 was thoroughly oxidised. Did Not Put In Mouth. 1983 was actually pretty good. Riper asparagus fruit expression, some rounded weight and textures, drinkable. This was a super year for N.Z. and some of the Rieslings could also be alive.
1984 was a wine that still showed well in the early 1990s. The fresh acids were preservatives. Here it was well oxidised and green simultaneously. 1985 caused some wonderment with its freshness and liveliness. Dipped in mid-palate, a little light, but with length. Unfortunately, our 1986 was corked and had gone decrepit and rotten. It was a high yield year, so this did not surprise us.
The deep golden colour of the 1987 told us it was too late. Steely aromatics along with oxidation. DNPIM. 1988 was thin and oxidised. Cyclone Bola gave a wine with little fruit. So an oxidised dilute wine gave only oxidation! 1989 was the pleasant surprise. Sweet lemon-grass notes, soft and broad, a little dried, but with fruit lushness.
We did not expect much from the 1989 'Show Reserve', fermented and matured in French barriques. Oxidation and a hint of oak spice? The power of suggestion! 1990 was not the best vintage, but here the wine was just alive. Light, faded, but just there. We expected 1991 to be better. Other 1991 Sauv Blancs, such as Hunters, have lasted. Earthy, steely and again decrepit stuff.
I suppose the conclusion is - don't keep these type of wines this long. But the early wines were generally better. There is a case for the simplest and most reductive winemaking being suitable for ageworthiness with this style. In my books, you should be drunk in the first 5 years or so.
To reward ourselves, we had 1983 and 1982 Ch. Langoa Barton from St Julien, a third growth. As usual the 1982 had it all over the 1983. Richer, more seriously together, the 1983 faded in comparison. Leaner, drier and tougher. Overall, they showed the Langoa pedigree. Or slight lack of it. Just a little too firm and slightly coarse, when compared to its more highly rated sibling Leoville Barton. I know which one I'd drink at 30 Years of age.
First made in 1979, that wine didn't last well. 1980 was a cracker, but we didn't look at either of those. 1981 was our first, found in the old cellar. Still varietal, some soft asparagus, greener acidity, but faded. Our 1982 was thoroughly oxidised. Did Not Put In Mouth. 1983 was actually pretty good. Riper asparagus fruit expression, some rounded weight and textures, drinkable. This was a super year for N.Z. and some of the Rieslings could also be alive.
1984 was a wine that still showed well in the early 1990s. The fresh acids were preservatives. Here it was well oxidised and green simultaneously. 1985 caused some wonderment with its freshness and liveliness. Dipped in mid-palate, a little light, but with length. Unfortunately, our 1986 was corked and had gone decrepit and rotten. It was a high yield year, so this did not surprise us.
The deep golden colour of the 1987 told us it was too late. Steely aromatics along with oxidation. DNPIM. 1988 was thin and oxidised. Cyclone Bola gave a wine with little fruit. So an oxidised dilute wine gave only oxidation! 1989 was the pleasant surprise. Sweet lemon-grass notes, soft and broad, a little dried, but with fruit lushness.
We did not expect much from the 1989 'Show Reserve', fermented and matured in French barriques. Oxidation and a hint of oak spice? The power of suggestion! 1990 was not the best vintage, but here the wine was just alive. Light, faded, but just there. We expected 1991 to be better. Other 1991 Sauv Blancs, such as Hunters, have lasted. Earthy, steely and again decrepit stuff.
I suppose the conclusion is - don't keep these type of wines this long. But the early wines were generally better. There is a case for the simplest and most reductive winemaking being suitable for ageworthiness with this style. In my books, you should be drunk in the first 5 years or so.
To reward ourselves, we had 1983 and 1982 Ch. Langoa Barton from St Julien, a third growth. As usual the 1982 had it all over the 1983. Richer, more seriously together, the 1983 faded in comparison. Leaner, drier and tougher. Overall, they showed the Langoa pedigree. Or slight lack of it. Just a little too firm and slightly coarse, when compared to its more highly rated sibling Leoville Barton. I know which one I'd drink at 30 Years of age.
Friday, March 6, 2009
In a Groove
Tough to get out to do extra-curricular stuff sometimes. Real life can intrude. So it's good to get out of that groove or rut. So it was a spur of the moment to catch up with our Pet Pals. Something new and something old to try over a quick put-together dinner.
Gruner Veltliner may be the new buzz. Those Austrians have a point of difference. So we tried N.Z.'s first commercial release, the 2008 Coopers Creek GisborneGruner Veltliner 'The Groover'. Lighter than many Austrian benchmarks, a little softer than expected, but with the ginger and pepper you want. Very easy to drink. If Coopers Creek keep this up, it'll be a groovy drink.
Then onto two groovy wines at the time. 1990 and 1991 Te Mata Estate Cabernet/Merlots. Bordeaux blends were the rage then, not Pinot Noir, no mention of Syrah either in those days. Very pleasant drops they were, so many years later. Not as good as their bigger brothers 'Awatea' and 'Coleraine', which were top of their game, especially the 1991s. But they showed ther respective vintage personalities. The 1990 a smaller scale job with acidity and a touch of the greens. The 1991 richer, sweeter, fleshier, and a touch of cedar and tobacco development. A groovy wee surprise, this pair were.
Gruner Veltliner may be the new buzz. Those Austrians have a point of difference. So we tried N.Z.'s first commercial release, the 2008 Coopers Creek GisborneGruner Veltliner 'The Groover'. Lighter than many Austrian benchmarks, a little softer than expected, but with the ginger and pepper you want. Very easy to drink. If Coopers Creek keep this up, it'll be a groovy drink.
Then onto two groovy wines at the time. 1990 and 1991 Te Mata Estate Cabernet/Merlots. Bordeaux blends were the rage then, not Pinot Noir, no mention of Syrah either in those days. Very pleasant drops they were, so many years later. Not as good as their bigger brothers 'Awatea' and 'Coleraine', which were top of their game, especially the 1991s. But they showed ther respective vintage personalities. The 1990 a smaller scale job with acidity and a touch of the greens. The 1991 richer, sweeter, fleshier, and a touch of cedar and tobacco development. A groovy wee surprise, this pair were.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
Having Faith
It's difficult sometimes to believe in yourself. People and situations around you can rock your faith in what you have found to be the best and true.
So SWMBO and I thought it was a time to share some bottles with the Jelly-Bean girl. At brunch, we had the option of two Champers to start with. We have always loved Louis Roederer, but last time at this eaterie, we enjoyed Pol Roger. So it was with a slight reluctance we took the Louis Roederer. It was everything it should have been. Rich and Pinot-y, but fresh, with elegance.
After, we thought a good claret should be explored. Coming to hand was a 1982 Ch. Talbot St Julien. Previous vintages around this year of Talbot have been badly bretty. But then again, some of the latest sampled1982s have been great. I was worried about how it would show. This was good wine indeed. Full, solid, almost chunky. Ripe meats and savoury ceday and a touch of mint. Sweet fruit too. That's Cabernet for you. And it's fuller structure came through with air time. I've always enjoyed Talbot, even more so than Gruaud-Larose, it's upper-market Cordier stablemate at the time. I should have had faith.
I've always trusted and had faith in Climens as a good Sauternes. The 1996 Ch. Climens Barsac, opened as a sweet end delivered everything. Restrained richness, a dry cut, classic lanolin and botrytis. Oak andsome VA lift. Good to know that having faith works out.
Thanks, Jelly-Bean girl, for making it a day to believe in yourself.
So SWMBO and I thought it was a time to share some bottles with the Jelly-Bean girl. At brunch, we had the option of two Champers to start with. We have always loved Louis Roederer, but last time at this eaterie, we enjoyed Pol Roger. So it was with a slight reluctance we took the Louis Roederer. It was everything it should have been. Rich and Pinot-y, but fresh, with elegance.
After, we thought a good claret should be explored. Coming to hand was a 1982 Ch. Talbot St Julien. Previous vintages around this year of Talbot have been badly bretty. But then again, some of the latest sampled1982s have been great. I was worried about how it would show. This was good wine indeed. Full, solid, almost chunky. Ripe meats and savoury ceday and a touch of mint. Sweet fruit too. That's Cabernet for you. And it's fuller structure came through with air time. I've always enjoyed Talbot, even more so than Gruaud-Larose, it's upper-market Cordier stablemate at the time. I should have had faith.
I've always trusted and had faith in Climens as a good Sauternes. The 1996 Ch. Climens Barsac, opened as a sweet end delivered everything. Restrained richness, a dry cut, classic lanolin and botrytis. Oak andsome VA lift. Good to know that having faith works out.
Thanks, Jelly-Bean girl, for making it a day to believe in yourself.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Do the Best
There's no point holding back. In life, you often only get one chance at things. After a few disappointments with the Kiwi wines, it was time to go back to the benchmarks. And with Kitty Kate and Pedro in town at different times, it was a chance to put up a few vinos, to do the best I could, considering the spur of the moment.
It was claret time, served in pairs. With Kitty Kate and her off-sider Trace, we looked at a 1982 Ch. Rouget Pomerol. A bit lean, not totally clean, but an OK drop. I was disappointed, but SWMBO was happier. So out came a 1982 Ch. La Fleur Petrus Pomerol. Much more alive and sweet in fruit. Head and shoulders above. Both with the dried tobacco and earth that only good Merlot from a decent terroir can give. As air time worked its magic, both wines became better - the Rouget a little richer, the La Fleur Petrus developing an iron core and concentration. Even 8 hours later, the better showing persisted.
Then Pedro got a pair of Pichons. One of my favourite properties, which Pedro inspired me on, so I had to do my best. 1981 and 1982 Chx Pichon Comtesse de Lalande Pauillacs. Both better than good wines, the 1981 showing its 'ordinary' pedigree of an average vintage. however. A touch on the leafy side, but intense, acidic and lively, though a leaner/lighter aspect. Real Cabernet Sauvignon here. But the 1982 was another star for the vintage. Magic how these to 1982s look so sweet and alive. Cabernet for sure, but ripe. Superb freshness and acidity. A solid and serious core and flow through the palate. These two structured wines made the Pomerols look a bit amorphous really.
To help the food go down, we had the newly arrived 2001 Trimbach Frederic Emile Riesling 375 Anniversary wine. A touch of development, bone dry, but sheer depth and classy richness. Oily and crisp simultaneously. This had to be good as an anniversary wine. The Trimbachs would have done their best on this one.
As an aside, we had a good look at some old N.Z. Sauvignons today. Te Mata 'Cape Crest'. 1996 and 1997 rather excellent, the former more broad and lantana, the latter absolutely delightful with its finesse and lifted fruit. Te Mata were doing the best at the time, no doubt, but it paid dividents with these two beauties, well-beyond their use-by date. With these two, it all came out superbly.
It was claret time, served in pairs. With Kitty Kate and her off-sider Trace, we looked at a 1982 Ch. Rouget Pomerol. A bit lean, not totally clean, but an OK drop. I was disappointed, but SWMBO was happier. So out came a 1982 Ch. La Fleur Petrus Pomerol. Much more alive and sweet in fruit. Head and shoulders above. Both with the dried tobacco and earth that only good Merlot from a decent terroir can give. As air time worked its magic, both wines became better - the Rouget a little richer, the La Fleur Petrus developing an iron core and concentration. Even 8 hours later, the better showing persisted.
Then Pedro got a pair of Pichons. One of my favourite properties, which Pedro inspired me on, so I had to do my best. 1981 and 1982 Chx Pichon Comtesse de Lalande Pauillacs. Both better than good wines, the 1981 showing its 'ordinary' pedigree of an average vintage. however. A touch on the leafy side, but intense, acidic and lively, though a leaner/lighter aspect. Real Cabernet Sauvignon here. But the 1982 was another star for the vintage. Magic how these to 1982s look so sweet and alive. Cabernet for sure, but ripe. Superb freshness and acidity. A solid and serious core and flow through the palate. These two structured wines made the Pomerols look a bit amorphous really.
To help the food go down, we had the newly arrived 2001 Trimbach Frederic Emile Riesling 375 Anniversary wine. A touch of development, bone dry, but sheer depth and classy richness. Oily and crisp simultaneously. This had to be good as an anniversary wine. The Trimbachs would have done their best on this one.
As an aside, we had a good look at some old N.Z. Sauvignons today. Te Mata 'Cape Crest'. 1996 and 1997 rather excellent, the former more broad and lantana, the latter absolutely delightful with its finesse and lifted fruit. Te Mata were doing the best at the time, no doubt, but it paid dividents with these two beauties, well-beyond their use-by date. With these two, it all came out superbly.
Saturday, February 7, 2009
Little Line-Up
Wouldn't call this an opportunity, but it was a situation to look at a little line-up of old N.Z. Cabernet Sauvignons. A slice of history, I suppose. Montana Marlborough Cabernet Sauvignon 1979 to 1986 (excluding 1985). Everything was stacked up against anything good coming out of it. But my philosophy is if you don't try the bad stuff, you won't appreciate the good stuff. Montana, our biggest winemaker at the time was making this commercial label. Up-market commercial, but still commercial. Cabernet Sauvignon from Marlborough. We can laugh now. And viticulture back then. Practically pre-historic! But you just never know. The Froggies and the Ockers have wines that last the distance.....
The 1979 Montana Marlb. Cab Sauv, 11.5% - volatile as hell. DNPIM (Do Not Put In Mouth). It reminded me of "Don't say Boo Hoo, say UHU" - an old glue advertisement. 1979 was not a great year. Rains spoiled the harvest.
1980, 11.5% - light, herby, some acid, dried out. A better vintage than 1979 for sure, then. Te Mata did a great Cab Sauv which won Trophy at the NWC.
1981. 12.0% - Darker, deep, intense wine, herbal, but real blackcurrants with fruit sweetness and depth. A surprise. Again, Te Mata did a good 1981 too.
1982, 12.0% - Gentle, soft, slightly milky lactic note, acidic. Barely passable, but alive, just. The benchmark - Te Mata 'Coleraine' was first made that year. It's still alive too, but in better condition.
1983, 12.5% - a hot year. Lively, riper, sweeter, low acid, some semblance of balance. Kumeu River did a great Merlot that year. Te Mata's 'Coleraine' was a cracker.
1984, 12.5% - a wet and cool year. Brown, oxidised, very green. Everbody made a weak one.
No 1985 in this line-up.
1986, 11.5% - green peas, acidic and dried out. We've seen some 1986s that were OK.
Obviously reds fare much better than whiles, if you read the last post on old Gewurztraminers.
These little line-ups throw some curve-balls sometimes.
The 1979 Montana Marlb. Cab Sauv, 11.5% - volatile as hell. DNPIM (Do Not Put In Mouth). It reminded me of "Don't say Boo Hoo, say UHU" - an old glue advertisement. 1979 was not a great year. Rains spoiled the harvest.
1980, 11.5% - light, herby, some acid, dried out. A better vintage than 1979 for sure, then. Te Mata did a great Cab Sauv which won Trophy at the NWC.
1981. 12.0% - Darker, deep, intense wine, herbal, but real blackcurrants with fruit sweetness and depth. A surprise. Again, Te Mata did a good 1981 too.
1982, 12.0% - Gentle, soft, slightly milky lactic note, acidic. Barely passable, but alive, just. The benchmark - Te Mata 'Coleraine' was first made that year. It's still alive too, but in better condition.
1983, 12.5% - a hot year. Lively, riper, sweeter, low acid, some semblance of balance. Kumeu River did a great Merlot that year. Te Mata's 'Coleraine' was a cracker.
1984, 12.5% - a wet and cool year. Brown, oxidised, very green. Everbody made a weak one.
No 1985 in this line-up.
1986, 11.5% - green peas, acidic and dried out. We've seen some 1986s that were OK.
Obviously reds fare much better than whiles, if you read the last post on old Gewurztraminers.
These little line-ups throw some curve-balls sometimes.
Don't Do This
Found a number of old Kiwi Gewurztraminers. They looked very unpromising on label at this time. But not a long time ago. Here's how they lined up:
1980 Montana Marlborough Gewurz, 11.5% - the second release under the Marlborough varietal designation. Deep golden, oxidised, a trace of cool spice.
1984 Montana 'Brookby Ridge' Marlborough Gewurz, 10.5% - won a gold medal at the 1986 National Wine Competition. Very dark golden. Oxidised. Volatile?
1985 Villa Maria Reserve Gisb. Gewurz, 12.2% - I'm sure it won gold in its day. Deep golden. Oxidised. Some botrytis.
1989 Mission 'Aged in Oak' Hawke's Bay Gewurz, 12.0% - paler colour, little varietal, dried out, a touch of oxidation. Nothing here.
1990 Mission Reserve 'Aged in Oak' Hawke's Bay Gewurz 'Rich Botrytis Sweetness', 13.0% - Oxidised, botrytis, no fruit,
1990 Chard Farm Central Gewurz, 10.5% - Very heavily oxidised. Nothing else there.
Lesson: If you have some old N.Z. Gewurztraminers. I mean 15 y.o. or more. They're probably stuffed. Even nowadays, don't do this. The only N.Z. Gewurz wine I'd contemplate trying this would be the 2004 Vinoptima Gisborne Gewurz. It has Alsace-like qualities. It might do it.
1980 Montana Marlborough Gewurz, 11.5% - the second release under the Marlborough varietal designation. Deep golden, oxidised, a trace of cool spice.
1984 Montana 'Brookby Ridge' Marlborough Gewurz, 10.5% - won a gold medal at the 1986 National Wine Competition. Very dark golden. Oxidised. Volatile?
1985 Villa Maria Reserve Gisb. Gewurz, 12.2% - I'm sure it won gold in its day. Deep golden. Oxidised. Some botrytis.
1989 Mission 'Aged in Oak' Hawke's Bay Gewurz, 12.0% - paler colour, little varietal, dried out, a touch of oxidation. Nothing here.
1990 Mission Reserve 'Aged in Oak' Hawke's Bay Gewurz 'Rich Botrytis Sweetness', 13.0% - Oxidised, botrytis, no fruit,
1990 Chard Farm Central Gewurz, 10.5% - Very heavily oxidised. Nothing else there.
Lesson: If you have some old N.Z. Gewurztraminers. I mean 15 y.o. or more. They're probably stuffed. Even nowadays, don't do this. The only N.Z. Gewurz wine I'd contemplate trying this would be the 2004 Vinoptima Gisborne Gewurz. It has Alsace-like qualities. It might do it.
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