Moment of Glory

With a winemaker of repute in town, and one who loves Riesling, it was proper to open a couple of German wines with him.

The first, a 2002 Maximin Grunhaus Abtsberg Riesling Auslese, from the Ruwer, was full-on stinky from sulphides, but looked brilliant on palate. Refined, cutting, delicate and with a touch of toastiness to cut through the simple sugar sweetness. Excellent acidity too. Breathed up in glass. Its moment of glory would be still to come, maybe a decade away. Funny how Maximin Grunhaus does this - some wines absolutely pure and clean, others of theirs affected by sulphides which stink the wines out.

And an unusual choice to follow, a 1983 Burklin-Wolf Wachenheimer Bohlig Riesling Auslese. Bought from Wilson Neill long ago, at $29.65. Equivalent would need a $90.00 payment? Remember the three 'B's of the Rheinpfalz in those days - Burklin-Wolf, Bassermann-Jordan and von Buhl! Anyway, poured golden in glass, with some oxidation and little fruit interest. Some gentle cream custard aged German Riesling character on the palate, and quite low acid. Not unexpectedly flat, as this is how Rheinpfalz wines show their provenance - warmer climate and heavier soils. But amazingly in a couple of minutes, some of its glory shining with gorgeous honey and toast notes. It faded quickly. It had its moment of glory. That's life.