No Doubts After a Decade

A bit of a treat in looking at a dozen Kiwi reds at a decade of age, the wines from the Library Cellar Man. Some critics say the wines from this extraordinarily hot vintage are on the downhill, but that's Aucklander talk. I don't think they appreciate secondary, let alone tertiary development characters!

First up a 1998 Daniel Schuster Omihi Pinot Noir, beautifully fine and mushroomy with forest floor complexities, really elegant stuff. Harmony here and good to see a Schuster in good form, as his wines do vary. Then a complete contrast with the 1998 Martinborough Vineyard Reserve Pinot Noir, a sizeable number with powerful fruit and structure, the oak noticeable. It will still keep. A 1998 regular label Martinborough Vineyard Pinot Noir was more integrated and classical in forest floor expression.

Suffering from cork taint and brett was the 1998 Sileni 'EV' Merlot/Franc. It was earthy and fully structured. We'll need to check another bottle soon, but I know Grant Edmonds started filtering to avoid any brett problems again. With it, his top wines became more elegant. A good thing? The 1998 Pegasus Bay 'Maestro' Merlot/Cab/Franc was cedary and tobacco-y, and a little crisp, the toasty oak standing out. Good South Island effort. Also surprising was the 1998 Mission Reserve Syrah, more like a gentle and dryish Bordeaux wine. Funny how varietal character becomes less distinct with time. However, one the the best 1998s came next - Te Mata 'Coleraine'. Rich, sweet, plums and berries, juicy and youthful, with plenty of body. This was dark in colour, showing visually its freshness and richness.

A wine of great refinement and rich, concentrated berry fruit, the 1998 Esk Valley Reserve Merlot/Malbec/Cab was one of the top wines too. I was let down by the French 'sighter', the 1998 Chateau Magdelaine St Emilion, as it was sour and lighter in fruit expression. Some of the other tasters loved it! Generally liked was the 1998 Benfield & Delamare Martinborough wine, elegant, distinctly spicy berryish. good acid and extract and with a future. Then came my top, the 1998 CJ Pask Reserve Merlot, showing the typical barrel-ferment moccha coffee oak, with lovely berry fruit depth and a structure to die for. Yum Yum. Too oaky for some, but that's OK.

Of the last two wines, the 1998 Esk Valley 'The Terraces' was sublime. Who says Malbec can't be classy? Well, this was, with seriously fine structure and rich, restrained opulence, if you know what I mean. The final wine was my least. The 1998 Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah, faded and with little going for it now. One of John Hancock's earlier efforts, and we know far he has come.

Verdict: The 1998 N.Z. Bordeaux-styled reds from Hawke's Bay are doing just fine. Some are beginning to drink well, with complexity, and others with plenty of time ahead. I have no doubts this is a doozy of a vintage.