Reminiscing

A group of wine industry people reminiscing, with a video with episodes of 'The Winemakers', a TV programme made in 1985, of now iconic N.Z. winemakers, playing in the background, was the setting for looking at a number of wines from 25 years ago. 1983 was a quarter of a lifetime or more, ago. Have things changed that much since then? Has there been progress?

Back in the mid 1980s, Cabernet Sauvignon was hot. There was no other drink for the keen wine and food aficionado. I'd like to think I was one then, but I cringe thinking about how sophisticated I thought I was! It's a shame that Pinot Noir and Syrah have left Cabernet and Merlot in the dust. But something tells me that fads and fashions give way to reality, and I reckon the Bordeaux styles will come back, 'cos they are so stylish and restrained, and great over a meal.

Four Kiwi Cabernets from 1983 were a test. If you gave them a go, you'd get some of the Froggie stuff. First up was the 1983 Cooks Hawke's Bay Cabernet Sauvignon pairing - 'Premium Varietal' alongside the 'Private Bin' red stripe Fernhill label. No contest. The Premium Varietal was all bones, no flesh, and a nothing wine. Herby, thin and faded, but not vinegar. But the Private Bin was still varietal, a little cool on nose, but with real fruit sweetness. Multi-gold and multi-trophy winner in its time. The judges knew good from bad then too. 1983 Te Mata 'Awatea' Cabernet/Merlot alongside 1983 McWilliams Private Bin Cabernet Sauvignon, another super gold medal win in its day. Te Mata ripe and with integrity. But a bit one dimensional. McWilliams with the milky lactic signature and green fruit underneath. But still sweet, but acid. Top wine was Te Mata 'Awatea', picked from the start by SWMBO. Second the Cooks PB Fernhill. She's always right. And John Buck, you certainly knew what you were doing then.

As a reward, on to the clarets, this time from the Right Bank, in honour of our Merlot making friends, the wines also from 1983. Ch. Trotanoy Pomerol, with sweet fruit and tobacco-y interest. Good core and very drinkable. Surprisingly the Ch Latour-a-Pomerol a bit hard, lean and dried out. Both from the Moueix stable, who were on top of their game then. At least these were decent wines, making the Kiwis seem ordinary.

A treat to follow. Ch. Lafaurie Peyraguey Sauternes 1983. Golden, but superb barley sugar, honey, marmalade, Semillon, botrytis and a little VA lift. Full, firmish and mature, this was classic Sauternes in every way. A top year, and this showed it. Drinking well now, but you could come back to it in a decade.

In reminiscing, yes, we have improved and made progress. But in the background, hearing the likes of John Buck, Mate Brajkovich, Denis Irwin and John Hancock talk about their dreams and inspirations, passion and sound ideas remain the same. The same quality parameters still operate and that is why the likes of these originals are worth listening to.